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Class 



Rnolc ."y^a 



Copyright ]\° 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr 



TO AND FROM ROME 



BY 

JOHN MULLIN BATTEN, B. E., M. D., 

LATE ACTING ASSISTANT SURGEON IN THE UNITED 
STATES NAV^'. 

Author of " Two Years in the United States Xa\-y,'' iSi ; " Random 

Thoughts," 1S96; " Rhythmic Flashes," 1904; " Round 

and Round," 1906: and " Over the Waters 

to EUiinburgh Town," 1910. 



PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR 
1913 



31q^l 
3 -5 



Copyright by JOHN MULLIN BATTEN, B. E., M. D., 
Downingtown, Pa. 



©CI.A34781 



Debtcation. 

To My Schoolmates, 
BENJAMIN C. KREADY, 

AND 

JOHN W. BICKEL, 

FRIENDS OF 

LONG AGO, 

THIS VOLUME OF 

To AND FROM ROME 

is most respectfully 
Dedicated. 



PREFACE. 



Previously to visiting Rome I often contemplated 
what sort of a place I would find. I had it all pictured 
in my mind the Appian Way and the Aqueduct of 
Claudius. These were the first I saw in entering 
Rome. The Appian Way, which I thought was built 
of solid masonry, with Julius Cesar's and his con- 
temporaries' tombs on either of the Way. Instead 
thereof I found Appian Way was only a macadamized 
road 25 feet wide, entering Rome, and was 180 miles 
long, and Claudius Aqueduct was built about 20 feet 
from the ground. Rome now is a modern city in all 
respects. 

J. M. B. 

Dowmngtovjft, Pa.^ 

March sg, tqi3. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Going Aboard the N. Prinzess Irene, Hoboken, i 

Azores, . . . .13 

Gibraltar, . . . . 18 

Naples, ■ . . . .20 

Vesuvius, .... 23 

Pompeii, . . . .23 

Rome, .... 26 

Florence, . . . -33 

Venice, .... 38 

Milan, . , . . .41 

Lucerne, .... 43 

Interlaken, . . . .60 

Neuhaussen, . . . 62 

Munich, . . . . 64 

Oberammergau, ... 65 

( 6 ) 



PAGE. 



Heidelburg, . . . .69 

Mayence, .... 70 

Cologne, . . . .72 

Hamburg, .... 73 

Letters to Corelli, , .81 

Alcohol, .... 96 

Syphilis, . . . .102 

Acute Intestinal Auto-Infection, . 1 1 1 

Smallpox, . . . .117 

Golden Wedding, . . . 127 

Record of My Maternal Grandfather's Enlistment 

Service in Revolutionary War, 129 



( 7 ) 



ALL ROADS LEAD TO ROME. 

SATURDAY, May 21, 1910. — I left Sallie A. Lock- 
art's, 1804 Vineyard street, Philadelphia, at 3.30 
A. M., in a rain storm, and arrived in Hoboken at 
8.30 A. M. In going from Philadelphia to Hoboken I 
passed through Trenton, Elizabeth and Newark. 
From Jersey City to Hoboken through the tube, 
which is 96 feet below the surface of the water. I 
went aboard the N. Prinzess Irene, 600 feet long, 60 feet 
breadth, and 32 feet depth, at 8,30 A. m. I was a 
stranger to everybody, but soon after I went aboard, 
Dr. Eastman, of Uniontown, Pa., claimed that he 
knew me, and had met me at some place where the 
A. M. A. meet. Dr. Eastman, wife and danghter, 
were going on the Cook's tour the same as I was on. 
The Kaserin Auguste Victoria was lying alongside of 
the N. Prinzess Irene. The number of my stateroom 
was 265, and of my seat at the table, 136. I had none 
of that timidity that I had experienced on my last voy- 
age across the ocean. I then was brooding over 
something dreadful that might occur; there was 
nothing occurred in the way of accidents. Now that 
I am hopeful there may be some accident. Things go 
by contraries. The N. Prinzess Irene left Hoboken 
about 2.00 p. M., and steamed out to sea. The evening 

( 9 ) 



lo All Roads Lead to Rome 

and uight was foggy, so that there was fog whistles 
sounding. I went to bed at 9 p. m. 

Sunday, May 22, 1910. — A beautiful May morning 
at sea. The waters are placid and everybody appears 
hopeful and happy. I was up at 7.00 A. m. I went 
to bed last night with a feeling of perfect security and 
slept well. I have a good deal of trouble to get the 
run of the Irene. The N. Priuzess Irene at 12.00 m., 
steamed 328 knots. After lunch there is a steamer 
named Berlin, steaming directly east and parallel to the 
N. Priuzess Irene, but the Prinzess Irene is steaming 
faster and soon left her behind. We have our break- 
fast at 8.00 A.M., lunchat loop, m., and dinner at 7.00 
p. M. I met the doctor of Irene yesterday and suggested 
to him that if he would have any capital opera- 
tions that I would gladly assist him with them ; he 
courteously replied, "it was not necessary." I met 
him to-day and he was quite affable. I spent a pleas- 
ant time with the doctor. I met with a gentleman, 
John Donat, from New York, on deck to-day. He 
thought Roosevelt was man of destiny and would be 
candidate for President of the United States at the 
nomination. He was a Roman Catholic, but he said 
he would not support him. In reply, I said I would 
not support him ; the objection that I gave, that he 
had been virtually President two terms, and for him 
to have it a third term would be in violation of the 
unwritten law in regard to serving more than two 
terms. No patriot would allow his name to go be- 
fore the country as candidate for a third term, and 
patriotic people would not vote for a man for the third 
term. The N. Prinzess Irene rides middling smoothly. 



All Roads Lead to Rome ii 

There was nothing of interest took place, except I 
felt a little sick. Slept well last night ; windy ; I 
walked the deck before going to bed. I went to bed 
at 9.00 p. M. 

Monday, May 23, 1910. — Up at 8.30 A. M., and 
breakfasted. Cloudy and cool. The N. Prinzess Irene 
steamed 362 knots from noon yesterday till noon to- 
day. I walked the deck some in the forenoon. I 
looked through the clouds at the sun. There are 
white caps visible to-day, and riding is rougher than 
usual. I took a nap since dinner. It is 3.00 p. m. 
The sun is peeping through the clouds. There 
are some white caps and the ship is riding them. I 
feel a little sick. There is a steamer north of us go- 
ing in the same direction and parallel to us, but 4.15 
p. M., we passed her. 

A day on the N. Prinzess Irene. — The day has been 
cloudy, windy and cold. We find the passengers are 
sitting around on chairs, protected from the wind by 
canvas, reading. I suppose a great many who never 
read before are reading now. There are some in the 
smoking room playing cards and checkers. Some are 
on the deck playing shufdeboard. Everybody feels 
chilly. In spite of the wind, some are walking the 
deck. In the evening men and women gather in the 
smoking room, and ladies in the cabin, to play cards 
and checkers, and drink coffee. 

Tuesday, May 24, 1910. — Up at 8.00 A. m., and 
breakfasted. I ate very little breakfast, although I 
feel better than I did yesterday evening. It is still 
cloudy, but some sunshine this morning. A Spanish 
sailboat passed close by us on our port going west, 



12 All Roads Lead to Rome 

about 9.00 A. M. About 11,00 a. m., another sailboat 
made her appearance, going west. From noon yester- 
day till noon to-day, the N. Prinzess Irene steamed 378 
knots. We have had a head wind for 24 hours. I 
have been walking the deck (6.00 p. m. ) ; I feel bet- 
ter. When one is seasick nothing seems to taste 
good ; no matter how palatable it may be at any other 
time, the stomach rejects it. Even the sense of smell 
is perverted — everything smells bad. The sight fails 
to admire the beauty he once found in observation. 
After 6.00 p. M., the sun peeped through the clouds. I 
sat on the deck after dinner, till 10.45, conversing with 
Dr. Eastman, when I went to bed. 

Wednesday, May 25, 1910. — Up at 7.00 a. m., and 
walked the deck till 8.00 a. m., when I breakfasted, 
and then walked the deck till 10.00 A. m. Cloudy, 
some sunshine, and milder. In the smoking room 
from 10.00 A. M. to 11.00 A. M. I walked the deck 
till 1. 00 p. M., when I took lunch. I took a nap till 
3.00 p. M. From noon 5'esterday till noon to-day, 
the N. Prinzess Irene steamed 350 knots. There has 
been clear sky and rain, and then clear sky. In the 
distance there have been successive showers went 
around this afternoon. 6.00 p. m., I was walking the 
deck since 3.00 p. m., and was interested in the steer- 
age passengers and their children. A typical southern 
colored woman was taking care of the children of a 
first-class passenger. A linguist was going to Spain 
in order to make herself more proficient in the Span- 
ish language. At 7.00 p. m. I had a very good din- 
ner and enjoyed it. I was in the smoking room after 
dinner. At 9.00 p. m., there was a shower. Two 



All Roads Lead to Rome 13 

priests and a Roman Catholic bishop sit at the same 
table with me. There is a beautiful moon scene 
shown through the black clouds. I went to bed at 
10.00 p. M. 

Thursday, May 26, 1910. — Up at 7.00 A. m. A 
beautiful clear sky presented itself afterward, covered 
with flying clouds, presenting a regular Italian sky. 
I walked the deck till breakfast, when I breakfasted. 
I then was in the smoking room till 10.00 A. M. 
There has been no vessel in sight yesterday nor to- 
day. I walked the deck from 10.00 to 11.00 A. m. 
There are no white caps to-day. The wind is in the 
east and is strong. I sat in the smoking room from 
11.00 to 12.00. From noon yesterday till noon to-day, 
the N. Prinzess Irene steamed 351 knots. They are 
playing cards in the smoking room. I took lunch at 
1. 00 p. M. After lunch I went to the smoking room. 
I left the smoking room at 4.30 p. m., and wandered 
about the ship, and down to 265. It is raining and 
wind3^ There was a yacht passed by the N. Prinzess 
Irene while we took lunch. It amused those of us 
who were at lunch. It is a dull day. I took dinner 
after I had walked the deck a half an hour. After 
dinner I was in the ladies' parlor writing. The ladies' 
saloon and smoking room, owing to the rain on deck, 
are pretty well filled to-night. There is not much com- 
fort in them. I went to bed at 10 p. M, 

Friday, May 27, 1910. — Up at 7.00 A. m. I walked 
the deck till I breakfasted. Cloudy and windy. I 
saw the Azore islands from N. Prinzess Irene, They are 
composed of the St. George, Pique and Fayal. The 
N. Prinzess Irene pass the St. George on our port and 



14 All Roads Lead to Rome 

the Pique and Fayal on our starboard. Pique is above 
the clouds. The islands belong to Portugal. There 
are about 500,000 Portuguese on the islands. The 
farms on the side of the mountain are ribbon-like in 
shape, and resemble a crazy quilt. The fences are 
built of lava stones. These islands are close together. 
The N. Prinzess Irene steamed along the southern shore 
of the St. George, and we have a good view of it. 
Mark Twain said the stone retention fences are to pre- 
vent the inhabitants from being blown into the sea by 
wind. We started to steam past the Azores at 8.00 
A. M., and left them at 12.00 M. I saw porpoises at i.oo 
p. M., and some sea gulls early in the day, the first I 
saw on the voyage. At town of St. George the mail 
was sent ashore. About 200 miles north of here, two 
years ago, a vessel was lost on the rocks. This vessel 
the N. Prinzess Irene rescued the passengers. It was 
very windy to-day. After lunch I went aboard the 
second-class passengers to see how they lived. I took 
a nap, We had some rain this morning. All the 
passengers were very much interested in the Azores. 
The currency of the Portuguese is denominated 
"Reis." It take 1,000 reis to make a dollar of our 
money. After we passed the Azores we had a clear 
afternoon. A bird flew on N. Prinzess Irene from the 
Azores as we passed them, and it left her at Gibral- 
tar, A man has been sick since he came aboard at 
New York, and has been sick ever since, confined to 
his bed. I saw him on deck this morning for the first 
time. He looked like a patient just recovering from 
typhoid fever. He says his brothers all follow the 
.sea for a livelihood, and he is the only one of his 



All Roads Lead to Rome 15 

family who can't stand the water. From noon yester- 
day till noon to-day the N. Prinzess Irene steamed 353 
knots. It is now 4.00 p. m. I have been in the 
smoking room writing, since 3.00 p. m. I was walk- 
ing the deck from 4.00 P. M. till 5.00 p. m. I was in 
the smoking room from 5.00 p. m. till 6.00 p. m. Yes- 
terday afternoon the second-class deck was abandoned 
on account of rain. I took dinner. At 8.30 p. m, I 
saw the comet for about five minutes. I got a glimpse 
of it and then it was covered with a black cloud, and 
•we had a shower. There was quite a stir on board as 
much as if a fire had occurred. There was a dance on 
the port side of the vessel, accompanied by excellent 
music, till I went to bed, at 10.00 p. m. 

Saturday, May 28, 1910. — Up at 7.30 A. m. I 
walked the deck for a quarter of an hour and took 
breakfast. Nine-tenths of the people on board are 
German. Last night was very dark on the outside, 
on the water as black as ink when I went to bed. 
This morning is cloudy and calm. Between 9.30 A. m. 
and 10.00 A. M., I spent in the smoking room. I have 
seen no steamers nor sails since I saw the yacht. On 
the Azores there is everything raised in the way of 
vegetables, fruit and grain, and especially grapes. 

I met a wonderful combination of intelligence this 
morning in the smoking room, from 10.00 till 12.00 M.: 
Mr. O'Connor, on history ; John Condee Dean, on as- 
tronomy, from Indianapolis, Ind.; and JohnDonat, N. 
Y., on Geography. From 12.00 m. till i.oo, writing up 
what I have observed to-day. The captain gave me a 
ribbon with N. Prinzess Irene printed thereon, suitable 
for wearing around the cap. 1.45 p. m., I just had 



i6 All Roads Lead to Rome 

lunch and came to the smoking room. Priest Daniel 
O' Conner said that the Roman religion prevailed in 
Japan in 1500. He disagrees with Andrew Carnegie 
in asserting that wars will cease. From noon yester- 
day till noon to-day, the N. Prinzess Irene steamed 367 
knots. Floreb, one of the islands of the Azores that 
I did not see, was the island on which the vessel ran 
upon the rocks and was lost, two years ago. A sail 
boat going east north of us we passed at 4.00 p. m. 
Sunshine this afternoon, and it is misty. I was in the 
smoking room from 4.00 p. m. till 5.00 p. m., when I 
walked the deck till 6.00 p. m. There was some rain, 
and fish jumped out of the water. There was a con- 
cert held in the dining room, many of the passengers 
attending it. From 6.00 p. m. to 7.00 p. m., I took a 
nap and prepared for dinner. It was windy and partly 
cloudy most of the day. I went to bed at 10.00 p. m. 
Sunday, May 29, 1910. — Up at 8.00 A. m., and break- 
fasted. It is cloudy and windy. In the smoking 
room after breakfast till 10 00 A. m. In the ladies' 
saloon and smoking room till 11.00 A. m., then I 
walked the deck till 12 com. Wind in the northeast, 
sunshine. In the smoking room till i.oo p. m., when 
I took lunch. The N. Prinzess Irene steamed 357 knots 
from noon yesterday till noon to-day. I was walking 
the deck till 12 00 m. Wind in the northeast, sun- 
shine. In the smoking room till i.oo p. m., when I 
took lunch. The N. Prinzess Irene steamed 357 knots 
from noon yesterdaj' till noon to-day. From the pro- 
ceeds of the concert they held last night they col- 
lected eighty dollars. Mrs. John C. Dean was lucky 
enough to draw the pool of ten dollars. Each day 



All Roads Lead to Rome 17 

there is a pool formed and the one in the pool who 
guesses the nearest the number of miles the N. Prinzess 
Irene has steamed in the last twenty-four hours, gets 
the pool. This prompted her husband to assert that 
the women of the United States are always wanting 
more money, and husbands are only machines to make 
money, and the women spend it. After lunch I took 
a nap and came to the smoking room at 3.00 p. m., 
and stayed in the smoking room till 4.30 p. m. It is 
hazy. The wind is blowing a strong breeze from the 
northeast, and it is chilly. I was in the smoking room 
till 6.30 p. M., when I prepared for dinner. I was one 
hour and twenty minutes eating my dinner. I was 
walking the deck and in the smoking room during the 
evening. This evening there is walking the deck, 
card playing and coffee drinking in the smoking 
room. I went to bed at 10.00 p. m.; milder. 

Monday, May 30, 1910. — Up at 6.30 A. m. Misty 
and somewhat foggy. We are steaming over the bat- 
tleground of Trafalgar. The porpoises are jumping out 
of water this morning. The man from Connecticut, 
who has been sick on the voyage, is better. There is an 
Italian doctor provided for the steerage by the govern- 
ment of Italy, and one by the N. Prinzess Irene, to 
care for the Italian passengers, to see that they get 
the proper food and sanitation. The Italian doctor is 
called the Medical Doctor Captain. All steamers that 
carry Italian emigrants have such a doctor aboard, ap- 
pointed by the Italian government. The wind is in 
the southwest. I have had my breakfast and am in 
the smoking room writing. It is 9.30 A. m. I left 
the smoking room at 10,00 A. m., when I went on 



1 8 All Roads Lead to Rome 

deck. I saw Africa on the starboard and Spain on 
the port, the lighthouse Tariffa on the point of Spain. 
10.45 A. M., the rocky shore of Spain. We are pass- 
ing a steamer going west on the starboard. We see 
the mountains of Africa and the mountains of Spain 
at 11.00 A. M. Two steamers on our port going 
west. A steamer on our starboard going west. At 
11.30 A. M,, we see Gibraltar. At i.oo p. m.. we ar- 
rive in the harbor and took lunch, and then went 
ashore. A guide, carriage and driver, was furnished. 
The rock Gibraltar is 1,550 feet high. I saw the old 
Red Tavern, the neutral ground between the French 
and English. There is a multiplicity of humanity in 
Gibraltar. All nations are represented. Jackasses 
carry all sorts of loads. I saw a gun that would 
shoot fifteen miles ; the old Moorish Castle, Victoria 
Park, palm trees, and magnolia trees. The street is 
straight and narrow and runs the whole length of the 
town. Gibraltar has 18,000 inhabitants and has 
5,000 soldiers. They use rain water. There is all 
sorts of barracks and forts, the old and more modern. 
They fish and there are fish markets. It seems very 
dry. The N. Prinzess Irene steamed 374 knots from 
noon yesterday till noon to-day. In the harbor of 
Gibraltar all countries are represented with men of 
war. We arrived at Gibraltar at 12.00 M., and left 
there at 6.00 p. m. We saw the back side of the 
Rock of Gibraltar. We took dinner at 7.00 p. m. I 
saw the comet. I went to bed at 10.00 p. m. 

Tuesday, June i, 1910. — Up at 6.30 A. m. I walked 
the deck till breakfast, 8.00 A. m. In smoking room 
till 10.00 A. M., and conversed with John Donat and 



All Roads Lead to Rome 19 

J. C. Dean, about Switzerland, Naples and Rome and 
Romanist. It is clear, warm and sunshine. I left 
the smoking room for the deck at 10.30 A. m., and re- 
mained there till 12.30 p. m. I got ready for lunch. 
I came to the smoking room after lunch at 2.10 P. M. 
I left there at 2.30 p. m,, for state-room and took a 
nap. This is a perfect day with Italian skies. From 
noon yesterday till noon to-day the N. Prinzess Irene 
steamed 285 knots. The N. Prinzess Irene is 560 feet 
long, 60 feet depth, and 60 feet breadth. I walked the 
deck till 6.30 p. M., and got ready for dinner. The 
band played American pieces while we took dinner. 
All stood up while the band played the "Star Spangled 
Banner." It was an aifectiug scene. I considered it 
a great honor to the Americans who were aboard, I 
viewed the comet. I came into the smoking room at 
8.15 p. M. I went to bed at 10.00 p. m. 

Wednesday, June i, 1910. — Up at 8.00 a. m. A 
beautiful morning, the waters are blue and placid, the 
sky is blue, some wind from the east. I have had my 
breakfast. It is 9.00 a. m. We have traveled well 
unto 4,000 miles from New York, and we are about a 
day's travel from Naples. I have had an enjoyable 
time on board of the N, Prinzess Irene, and the trip 
across the ocean has been a pleasant one. I made the 
acquaintance of John Donat, John C. Dean, Clark 
Fitzmaurice, and Mr. O' Conner. I left the smoking 
room at 10.00 A. M. At 11.00 a. m. we got the first 
glimpse of the coast of Sardinia. About 12.00 m., 
we steamed abreast of southern coast of Sardinia, and 
at 3.15 p. M., we had steamed the whole length of the 
southern coast of Sardinia. There were some sea 



20 All Roads Lead to Rome 

gulls flying after us since we neared Sardinia. Two 
steamers steamed west on the north of us, or between 
us and the shore of Sardinia. The island is sterile 
and made up of igneous rocks. Goats are raised in 
numbers. It is quite misty. The N. Prinzess Irene 
steamed from noon yesterday till noon to-day, 372 
knots. It is misty in the neighborhood of Sardinia. 
There was a paper signed by passengers giving great 
praise to the captain and ofl&cers of the N. Prinzess 
Irene, for their attention and kindness during the 
voyage. After we left southwest Sardinia we steamed 
past Gallery Bay, which we don't leave till we come to 
Covoli light-house, which is situated at the southeast- 
ern part of Sardinia island, at 5.00 p. m. The island 
is 75 miles wide. The N. Prinzess Irene gets her 
supply of water from New York cit}'- to come over, 
and from Naples to return to New York city. I left 
the deck at 5.00 p. m., for the smoking room, till 6.30 
p. M. , when I got ready for dinner. We spent from 
7.00 till 9.00 p. M., in the dining room. The dining 
room was decorated with American and German flags, 
and the tables were likewise decorated with flags. It 
was the captain's dinner. During dinner we had band 
music. At the latter end of the time in the dining 
room, the dining room was darkened, and the waiters 
marched and countermarched through the dining 
room with torch lights. It was very pretty. The 
balance of the evening we had music and dancing on 
deck. I went to bed at 10.00 p. m. 

Thursday, June 2, 1910. — Hazy and warm. Up at 
6.00 A. M., and breakfasted at 7.30 A. m. At 6.45 
A. M., I first got a glimpse of the mountains outside 



All Roads Lead to Rome 21 

of Naples. The N. Prinzess Irene arrived at the har- 
bor of Naples at 9.00 A. m. The streets have no 
regularity. The streets are narrow and paved with 
square stone blocks, and also the pavements. The 
street cars run on one side of the street and return on 
the other side of the street. Before I landed I was 
amused at boys diving for pennies out of small boats. 
On shore we met all sorts of beggars. Boys and girls 
selling everything imaginable. There are great many 
donkeys used in the shafts of large carts held up by a 
high saddle on their backs. The carts are loaded 
heaviest on their rear part so that the donkey bears 
little weight on its back. Sometimes two horses or 
two mules are hitched to the cart ahead of the cart and 
donkey. Sometimes instead of the mules, it is an ox 
and mule. Naples has a quarter of a million inhabi- 
tants. The architecture of Naples is Roman. The 
houses are built on the side of the hills. We are 
stopping at the Hotel Victoria, I in room loi. The 
weather is balmy and foggy. There are automobiles 
in Naples. The N. Prinzess Irene steamed 323 knots 
from noon yesterday to Naples, 

I saw friars walking on the streets of Naples. I 
visited a square or park in which palm trees and mag- 
nolia trees were among the shade trees. I saw an ox 
to a cart with a little horse. I saw an ox to shafts of 
the cart. The cart was held up by a yoke to his 
neck. In the park I saw about 500 school children 
with the teachers, sprinting through the park for an 
hour. There are fine horses and carriages driven 
along the main thoroughfare, via Partenopi. I im- 
agine they are owned by foreigners. The town fronts 



22 All Roads Lead to Rome 

on the bay, in shape of a horse-shoe, and back on 
the hill. It extends around the Bay of Naples four 
or five miles. The houses on the hill are built zig- 
zag to the top of the hill. The day is warm, misty 
and cloudy. The Hotel Victoria is a nice hotel. We 
took lunch and dinner at the hotel. The cooking is 
different from ours in the United States of America. 
I saw an Italian blacksmith shop. The street mer- 
chants are very persistent in making a sale. The 
Bay of Naples is very pretty. 

Friday, June 3, 19 10. — In looking out from the win- 
dow of room loi of Victoria, I see a great many 
small boats on surface of the waters ; soldiers are 
passing by in front of the Victoria. 

We visited the Naples Museum. We saw gold 
chains and such gold ornaments as ladies wore in that 
day taken from the lost city of Pompeii, and doctors' 
instruments in use then ; pottery ; a bull cut out of a 
large marble cube. I saw the sexual art of Greece. In 
Pompeii the custom of the people was to use a bottle 
at funerals to bottle tears shed and buried with him. 
Roman Catholic cathedral by Charles I, (1200) built on 
the ground of theTemple of Jupiter ; Venus ; two Ve- 
nuses by artists, in museum ; a statue of Homer, Caesar, 
and a Grecian horse. I was in the Aquarium. On top 
of and west of mountain and historic hills is situated 
Vesuvius and Pompeii ; I saw wire taken from Pompeii. 
At Naples the soldiers go out for long runs in the 
mornings. The Hotel Victoria is lighted by elec- 
tricity, and is six stories high. The clothes press 
differs in this regard : A rod runs lengthwise across 
the top of clothes press. The clothes are hung on a 



All Roads Lead to Rome 23 

hook on the rod. The bedstead is iron. The main 
business street is a busy one. There were six two- 
horse carriages took us around to-day. The bedstead 
is partly cushioned, with mattress on top, and narrow 
Brussels carpet in the room, washstand, chamber case, 
sofa, two cushioned chairs, two tables. ■ 

Saturday, June 4, 1910.— The military are prac- 
tising on the street in front of the hotel. We started 
oh our journey to visit Vesuvius and Pompeii, at 
9.00 A, M. ; six two-horse carriages took us to de- 
pot. We then take the cars which run to the foot of 
mountain, through a very fertile part of the country, 
composed of vegetables, natural growth of trees, 
grapes, and fruits of all kinds. These are grown on 
lava that has flowed from Vesuvius at diflferent times. 
We reach Cook's railroad, a cog-wheel railroad, and 
ascend the mountain to nearly the top. We passed 
the Observatory, where lava of 1906 divided ; one 
part of the lava runs to one side of the observatory, 
and the other part to the other side, thus miracu- 
lously saving the Observatory. The diflferent periods 
of the eruptions, 1872, 1895, and 1896, did miraculous 
work in running down the sides of mountains. Pom- 
peii was destroyed by pumice and ashes in 79. A 
new Pompeii was commenced in 472, and again de- 
stroyed. The excavation of Pompeii was commenced 
in 1448. Gates Annul at the entrance. A fountain 
built of granite, worn by the hands in two diflferent 
places by the people in leaning over to take a drink 
from the fountain. We saw several such fountains, 
wine shops, baker shops. Seric water supplied Pom- 
peii then, the same that supplies Naples now. The 



24 All Roads Lead to Rome 

second, called Mercuric fountain. We saw the Pub- 
lic Baths. We saw the machine with which olive oil 
was made, the machine with which they made flour, 
the baker's shop, a private house in which they had 
all the modern convenience, in which there was a 
room set apart tor immoral and lewd purposes. Houses 
of ill fame put conspicuous signs on the front walls 
to indicate the nature of the houses. The streets worn 
by wagons, could be seen along the narrow streets. 
The streets were paved with heavy square stone, a 
foot square. The pavements, with curb stones two 
feet wide, used the same sort of stone for paving. 
The pavement stood ten inches above the streets. I 
saw in a house petrified bodies of those who died in 
the destruction of Pompeii. Palace of Justice, Fo- 
rum Triangular, Fourth Century B. C. Larger Thea- 
tre. Temple d' Aside, Fourth Century B. C. The 
walls of the houses are artistically painted, although 
2,000 years have elapsed since the destruction of Pom- 
peii ; the paintings are well preserved. The houses 
are built of brick, two stories high. There are no roofs 
on the houses now, although they were covered by 
clay tile originally. We saw three theatres or forums 
that would seat 5,000 people. There is a banqueting 
hall. Pompeii is in straight line south of Vesuvius ; 
is five miles distant. We took dinner at one of Cook's 
stations descending Vesuvius. In the morning en 
route coming from Vesuvius outside of Naples, we 
saw gardens, cedars, thatched roofs, natural forests, 
Royal Palace, poor quarters. 

Sunday, June 5, 1910. — Up at 7.00 a. m. Wrote till 
9.00 A. M., and took breakfast. This is the first Sun- 



All Roads Lead to Rome 25 

day in June, and Italians always celebrate this day, 
consequently there is quite a stir in the military, com- 
posed of footmen, cavalry, and bicycle riders, march- 
ing and countermarching, in front of the Hotel Vic- 
toria, with music. The weather is cloudy and windy, 
some rain. A thunder shower passed over at 11.00 
A. M., and lasted till 5.00 p. m. There is a banquet- 
ing hall of large dimensions in the Hotel Victoria, 
with mirrors on one side. The curb-stoues in Naples 
are fifteen inches wide. Naples has half a million in- 
habitants. A funeral I saw pass the Hotel Victoria 
with six horses to the hearse, two carriages, each 
drawn by two horses. Flowers were placed on the 
hearse and on the carriages. Above the Observatory 
retention walls were built by the government to pre- 
vent hot lava from running down the hill in time of 
an eruption. Greater than a semi-circle was a Grecian 
Forum, and a semi-circle, or less than a semi-circle, 
was a Roman Forum or Opera. Vesuvius is thirt)-- 
miles from Naples. Excavation of Pompeii is going 
on now. A miniature car runs up opened street and 
loads, then returns, drawn by horses, or pushed by 
men, to next opened street, to a turn-table, when it 
turns down the opened street to place for deposit. 

Room loi, 14x21, with one window in front, on the 
fourth floor, overlooking the Bay of Naples ; one shut- 
ter or blinds, and one door window with balcony out- 
side, on which you can stand to observe the Bay of 
Naples and part of the town skirting the Bay of Na- 
ples on the right, mountains on the left skirting the 
Bay of Naples. I went to bed at 10.00 p. m. 

Monday, June 6, 1910. — Up at 7.00 a, m. Cloudy. 



26 All Roads Lead to Rome 

The distance from Naples to Rome is 150 miles. I 
took a walk and was caught in a shower, sought shel- 
ter in doorway, where I saw them milking goats. I 
saw a beautiful scene over Naples Bay, black over- 
head and beautiful green on the bay. We left Naples 
at 2.00 p. M. We are running through a delightful 
agricultural and horticultural country, then through 
a valley, now running through mountainous country 
more productive. Mountainous, irregular surface af- 
ter we had traveled 75 miles. Natural timber, castles, 
then mountains and valleys, through a pass, then a 
valley, through tunnel i ; surface irregular, then 
through tunnel 2 ; surface irregular, through a pass, 
castle on the hill, then through tunnel 3 ; castle, then 
through a more productive and expansive country 
surrounded by hills. An agricultural and horticultural, 
and very productive country, presents itself as we ap- 
proach Rome, We pass through tunnel 4. We pass 
the old Roman Aqueduct and Appian Way as we near 
Rome. We arrived at Rome at 6.00 p. m. We stop 
at the Continental Hotel, an up-to-date hotel, with all 
the modern conveniences and comforts. I was as- 
signed to room 29, second floor. The hotel is six 
stories high, with an elevator, My room has iron bed- 
steads, narrow, painted black, with cushion iinder a 
hair mattress, bureau, chamber case, two mirrors, 
washstand, three cushioned chairs, clothes press with 
rod through the top after the style of clothes presses 
there ; wooden table, with checker-board on top ; 
mats, electric lights and caudle, lace curtains, window 
with four lights in it, door like shutters, blinds which 
open on hinges, so does the window open in.side, with 



All Roads Lead to Rome 27 

wooden doors on hinges inside of the window, which 
are on the window. Room 9x24, mirror in the door 
of the clothes press. The hotel is heated by steam. 
The pavements that I have observed is composed of 
marble curb, twelve inches wide, a yard square stones 
for the pavement. The street is paved with block 
stone, 4 in. by 4 in. There are public lanterns on the 
streets and public places, for men. They are built at 
right angles to the wall, so that the men's backs onlj' 
are exposed to public view. There is a lantern on the 
other side of the street from my room in the hotel. 

Tuesday, June 7, 1910. — Up at 6.30 a. m. I wrote 
till breakfast time, 8.30 A. m. We commenced our 
drive around Rome in two two-horse carriages, at 
9.00 A. M., and visited the Forum, a destroyed place 
where Julius Csesar, St. Paul and others, frequented. 
We saw and heard much of interest. I saw mosaic 
pavement. We saw the Altar of the Unknown God, 
went along Villa Nova, stones were lava used in 
paving the streets of ancient Rome. The ruins of the 
Forum is of 'wonderful interest. The Appian Way is 
180 miles long. The old walks, the painted walls that 
have lasted from the early Christian era. St. Peter's 
Cathedral makes an imposing sight both outside and 
inside. It is 615 feet long and 95 feet high. There 
are figures of 70 in number on each side of the en- 
trance. The Obelisk means silent witness. The 
Vatican is on the right of St. Peter's Cathedral. The 
Pope lives in the Vatican on the right. The bronze 
doors in front of St. Peter's Cathedral ^were made in 
the thirteenth century. The mosaic work is quite an 
interest. The monuments of Victor Kmanuel and 



28 All Roads Lead to Rome 

Raphael are situated in separate niches. The stone 
made of lava and placed in the floor, formed the 
place on which prisoners stood on the floor. 

In the afternoon we visited the Pantheon, built in 
30 B. c. The front part of the building was erected 
400 years after the original building was finished. In 
the afternoon we visited the Coliseum, 1,900 feet 
around, 157 feet high, built a. d. 42. It has 80 
arches, used in emptying it of its audience of 87,000 ; 
1,087 would go through each arch ; a monument was 
erected on an elephant. There were elevators in the 
Coliseum. The people said why the people come up 
out of the ground. Gladiators and animals fought in 
the arena. The spectators were composed of the Em- 
peror, patricians and plebeians. Cicero made speeches 
in the Forum. Napoleon ordered a part of the Coli- 
seum to be excavated. Some of the great orators of 
the day made speeches in the Forum. Nero had a 
circus on the ground on which St. Peter's now stands. 
The inside architecture of St. Peter's is wonderful. 
The Pope insisted upon Michael Angelo painting with 
his own hand the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, and 
although unwillingly he began in 1508 and completed 
within less than twenty-two months, his colossal task 
proved one of the most marvellous of his works. It 
deceives the eye. The rotunda appears wider and 
larger after you have stood in the rotunda awhile. It 
has a wonderful effect. A tree, the leaves of which 
were used in a crown, stands in the Forum. There is 
a fountain in the Forum of the sixteenth century. 
We crossed over the Tiber on the bridge Harriden. 



All Roads Lead to Rome 29 

There are five bridges in Rome that span the Tiber. 
The day is beautiful. 

Wednesday, June 8, 1910. — Up at 6 A. m. Clear, 
sunshine, warm. I took a walk to the park nearby 
the Continental Hotel, which is a unique place with 
palm trees and cypress trees. I saw women carry- 
ing baskets of vegetables on their heads. There are 
electric cars in Rome. Via Cavour is a street on 
which is situated the Continental Hotel. The party 
left the Hotel Continental at 9.30 a. m., to go to the 
Vatican, in six two-horse carriages. We drove to the 
left, around St. Peter's, to the Vatican. The Vatican 
and Papal Garden are on the right of vSt. Peter's Ca- 
thedral. We enter the Vatican, which contains 1,000 
rooms, by Raphael Hall, Hall of Constantine, Logio 
and Raphael. We had a panoramic view of Rome 
out of a window in the Vatican ; Musee, Vatican, 
Pope's residence and garden, Hall of Tapestry, done 
with a needle, Map's Hall, by Raphael, Rego Hall, 
7 years, Omedo, 400 b. c, Hercules, Hall of the 
Muses, Socrates, Court of Belvidere, Siege of Troy, 
390 B. c, Torro Belvidere, 300 b. c, Cicero, by Byron 
in Childe Harold, Diana, Demosthenes statue, Mi- 
nerva, Nilo, 400 b. c, Venus, Meda. 

Via dei Ivinestone, New Road, 1870, Nero Aque- 
duct. In the afternoon. Obelisk, 1500B. c , 115 feet high. 
Mosaic Work Floor, sat in. View down the Mother's 
Church, St. Paul, late Pope's Monument, Cloister, 
twelfth century, very large bronze doors at the en- 
trance of church, fourteenth century. There was a 
marble stone in the shape of a mantelpiece built in 
the wall, imported from Jerusalem. It is said Jesus 



3o All Roads Lead to Rome 

stood under this stone ; tomb of Sebastian, Great Ba- 
silico, Church Festona, St. Paul, Catacomb in the 
Hollow. The Catacombs was the first burying place 
of the Christians, a, d. 70 ; Bath of the Cola Cola, 
Appian Way, Hall of Cola Cola, Public Place. Three 
gates on the Appian Way, it is said, St. Paul went 
through on foot when he was traveling to Rome ; 
Tomb, 78 B. c. Byron speaks of this tomb in Childe 
Harold ; Tomb of Pope, fourteenth century, bronze 
doors, Musee, seventeenth century, Holy Stairs ; Pope 
worshipped in the Mother Cathedral the last time the 
Pope was in the Cathedral. The party went through 
the Catacombs ; each of us carried a lighted candle 
and passed by the actual tomb of St. Paul, in a sub- 
terranean passage. The body of St. Peter was in- 
terred with St. Paul, but the body of St. Peter has been 
translated. There are three tiers under ground, and 
St. Paul's body is interred in the second tier. The 
Catacombs occupy 160 acres. We were through the 
subterraneous passage-ways of the Catacombs about 
two hours. I was glad to get outside where I could 
see light. The stone to which I refer was imported 
from Jerusalem, a. d. 149. Christ walked under it. 
He was six feet tall ; I walked under it, and I am six 
feet tall. I could just touch the top of my head 
against the marble ; the marble stone stood in the wall 
like a mantelpiece. The water of Rome was con- 
veyed from Sabine hills in lead pipes about 70 a. d., 
and modern Rome has been getting her water from the 
same place since 1870. The country around Rome is 
undulating, and productive in agricultural and horti- 
cultural products. There are mountains and hills ad- 



All Roads Lead to Rome •:'r 

jacent to Rome. In ancient times there was a wall 
built around Rome. That wall still exists in broken 
fragments. We left for the Catacombs, five miles 
south of Rome, along the Appian Way, at 2.30 p. m., 
in six two-horse carriages. The Appian Way is 180 
miles long and 25 feet wide. It appears to be macad- 
amized. 

Ladies wore their Pompadour style 600 b. c, as a 
picture in the Vatican testifies to. In passing through 
the Vatican, Generals Grant, Sheridan and Sherman, 
the former was standing near a statue of an Italian 
military man. Generals Sherman and Sheridan ap- 
plauded. When General Grant noticed the statue by 
his side he was surprised, as it resembled him (Grant) 
so much. The same guide that took us through the 
Vatican, took the generals through, and told the story 
to us. » 

Thursdaj^ June 9, 1910,— Up at 6.00 a. m.— A clear, 
sunshiny morning. Breakfasted and took a walk 
about the Kterual City. The Romans have been ab- 
sorbed by other nations since the downfall of Rome, 
so that they have disappeared, and Rome mostly is 
inhabited by Italiaiis. Rome has a half-million of in- 
habitants to-day. The town is built up of blocks of 
houses, six stories high. The streets are wide and 
narrow. In some parts of the town the streets are ir- 
regular, in other parts of the town they are regular. 
There are some donkeys used in Rome, but mostly 
horses. Men and women are well developed. I see 
soldiers drilling on the streets and walking a fast 
gait. I did not go out much to-day. It is too hot. 

Friday, June 10, 1910.— Up at 6.00 a. m.— A shower 



32 All Roads Lead to Rome 

this morning. I walked around by the Cathedral near 
by. There are no seats in the Cathedral here ; I look- 
ed into it. The name of our guide is Knupker. Guide 
at Naples, D'Omforio ; guide at Rome S. R. Forbes. 
I saw a pair of oxen pulling a wagon. 

Rome is governed by Mayor Nathan, and a Council 
elected by the people and endorsed by the King of 
Italy, Candidates for office must be freeholders and 
twelve year residents of Rome. A man by the name 
of Nathan, a Jew, is Mayor of Rome now. I was at 
the King's Palace, on the Via Nazionale. The latter 
is the most beautiful street I have yet been on. 

A square, sycamore trees, palm trees, cypress trees, 
fountain, marble benches and wooden benches in the 
square. Piles of rocks in the square, lanterns around 
the square, a wooden building at the entrance. 

Via Dei Quirinale. 

We left Naples Monday, at 2.00 p. m. Tuesday, 
the following day, June 6, 1910, the inhabitants of 
Naples were aroused from their beds at 3.00 A. m., by 
an earthquake. The earthquake was felt most a few 
miles east of Vesuvius. Sardinia was partly devas- 
tated b}^ a cyclone. Paris and Cologne have been 
visited by thunder storms. There was a rain storm 
about 2.00 p. M. I took a walk south of the Hotel 
Continental, to a wall, and retraced my steps back to 
the hotel and down to Cook's oJ05ce, and via Nazion- 
ale, on which I bought a map of Rome. 

Rome is the most complete city in the world. 
Everything is finished in the most superb style ; 
streets, pavements and buildings, are clean. Rome is 
a model city. The temperature is even throughout 



All Roads Lead to Rome 33 

the whole year, yet it has been very hot since I have 
been here. The Hotel Continental is heated by steam, 
lyoquet is the name of a table fruit. 

Naples, breakfast, 8.30 a. m., dinner, 1.30 p. m., 
supper, 7.30 p. M. 

Rome, breakfast, 8.30 A. m., dinner, i p. m., supper, 
7.30 p. M. 

In the Mother Cathedral the statue of St. Peter has 
the toes all kissed away, and instep of same foot 
rubbed away by the tops of heads. 

Saturday, June 11, 1910.— Upat 6.00 A. m. Beauti- 
tiful morning. The party left Rome at 9.00 a. m. 
We passed by the Temple of Venus and the Wall, 
and ran along the Tiber some distance. It is 196 
miles from Rome to Florence. Passed by embank- 
ments and sycamore trees. The country through 
which we pass is an agricultural one, and is irregular. 
Mountainous, interspersed with eucalyptic trees. 
Farmers are harvesting along the route. We see nu- 
merous olive groves on the hills as we pass along. 
We cross under twenty-two tunnels. We run in 
valley of the Tiber. Some places the valley is wide, 
some places narrow. We cross the Tiber three times. 
The mountains run parallel, and either side of rail- 
road. We pass a lake named Purged. The latter 
part of our journey is mountainous and hilly. The 
scenery along the route is very beautiful. The 
thrifty farmers and their wives are taking in their 
crops. We are running through a valley which is 
very productive and beautiful. Olive groves, palm 
trees, mulberry trees, pine trees, and poplar, abounds. 
The Arno river runs through Florence. We ran 



34 All Roads Lead to Rome 

through towns and villages, a number of which were 
on hills. We arrived at Florence at 2.30 p. m., and 
stopped in Hotel New York, I in room 7. The streets 
are paved with large stone and pavements with very- 
large stone blocks, extending the whole width of the 
pavement, and about 16 feet wide. There are no curb 
stones. The streets mostly are narrow, some are wide. 
There is no regularity in their direction, a few of the 
streets are asphalt. There are donkeys, and donkeys 
and carts, used. The horses are fine, the saddles on 
the donkeys are high, and carry the shafts of the cart 
high. My room is heated by steam. The furniture 
consists of Brussels carpet, two mirrors, five cush- 
ioned chairs, one arm chair, washstand, writing table, 
wide iron bedsteads, high posts, with wide fringe 
around the top, chamber case, sofa, clothes rack to 
hang clothes on, bureau, window, two doors opening 
inward, with iron balcony on the outside, three 
lights in each door, with shutters hung on each door, 
on hinges over glass and swinging inwards ; lace cur- 
tains. The hotel was at one time a palace — Palace de 
Medici. I walked along Arno river and along some 
streets, where are sculpture, stores and picture stores 
on the hotel side of the Arno river. Galileo, Michael 
Angelo and Dante, were born in Florence. 

Sunday, June 12, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Break- 
fasted at 7.00 A. M. The church bells are ringing ; 
cloudy, hazy. After breakfast I walked along the 
Argo river to the dam and falls of the Argo river, 
and back along another street, via Curatone, via 
Palatini, via Malagnano, Plazzi Marie, via Mag- 
gio, Strucci Olo Petti, Raphaella Mosaic. Pic- 



All Roads Lead to Rome 35 

tures of the sixteenth century — Reuben, Modena, 
Family of Nero. Sculpture taken from Pompeii, 
Reuben School, French paintings painted by the 
English Vandyke, Venus Petti, Art Gallery, Tribune. 
There are 250,000 inhabitants in Florence. A shower 
in the afternoon. Lunch at 12.30 p. m. 

The people speak the Italian language in Florence, 
and are much like the people of Rome. They are 
well developed, fine looking, and educated. The men 
are fine looking and the woman are pretty. Painting 
and sculpture are the chief occupation of the people. 
The people drink wine, but are a busy people, and 
seem not to be affected by drink. Florence is gov- 
erned by Mayor and Council, with the sanction of the 
King. Florence is supplied with water from the Ap- 
penine Hills. The water is considered to be good. 
The front doors of the hotel are metal, six inches 
wide, and swing in and out. The washboard of my 
room is stone. There are fine horses in Florence, but 
donkeys with high saddles are seen. The people are 
well behaved. 

Monday, June 13, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m., and 
breakfasted. Thunder shower early this morning. I 
took a walk to the celebrated bridge, and over it, on 
which are kept stores. I bought some pictures and a 
map of Rome. We saw the Struggi. Rings in the 
walls of the house was a sign that he who lived in the 
house belonged to the nobility. Struggi means home. 
Built in the sixteenth century, Cathedral of St. 
Laurentz. 

Chapel, fifteenth century. Chapel of sixteenth cen- 
tury. The Tomb of Christ, Michael Angelo archi- 



36 All Roads Lead to Rome 

tecture, main Chapel, Garden of main Chapel, John 
the Baptist, eleventh century, mosaic work of the 
twelfth centurj^ doors of the thirteenth centurj', 
bronze doors called Paradise, bronze, very pretty. 
Lunch at 12.30 p. m. Afternoon drive we passed by 
the house where Dante was born, 1255. Cathedral 
Roman Catholic, the third edifice in the world built in 
the fifteenth century. Michael Angelo was the archi- 
tect. The dome of the Cathedral is 350 feet high. 
The tower is very pretty. Museum : I saw cannon 
made in the fifteenth century. Mantel and terra cotta 
by Michael Angelo. There are four bridges that span 
the Arno river, and two bridges for horses. We 
passed by the house where Elizabeth Barrett Brown- 
ing died. We continued our drive on the other side 
of Arno river, where there were pretty villas and 
parks, in which grew sycamore trees, palm trees, mag- 
nolia trees, cedar and other trees. Among them was 
the aspen. We finally reached a high point of ground 
in our drive, from whence a most beautiful view of 
Florence and its surrounding country was presented. 
In the distance we could see the Appeaine mountains. 
Behind one of the ranges Milton wrote the famous 
" Paradise Lost." We saw parts of the old wall that 
surrounded Florence. A part of it is torn away now. 
Water running out of the side of the hill along which 
we passed. We passed St. Crozzi. The name of the 
church, Dante, the poet, Michael Angelo and Gallileo, 
were interred. We saw the tomb of each. We saw a 
memorial to Americus Vespuzzi. We then continued 
our drive to the suburbs of the western part of Flor- 
ence, through parks, along hedge fences, natural tim- 



All Roads Lead to Rome 37 

ber and magnolia trees, and past some squares, back 
to the hotel, where we arrived at 5.30 p. m. The 
scenes we saw in our drive were delightful. We 
visited a place where mosaic work was done. The 
headstone was sawed by a wire saw and smoothed b}^ 
another hard stone rubbed over it. The workmen 
consisted of men and boys, twelve in all. We also 
visited a place where waists and all linen garments 
were made by young ladies. The point from which 
we observed the town and surroundings of Florence 
is named Michael Angelo Square, in honor of, and a 
memorial to Michael Angelo. Few men made such 
an impression on the hearts of the Italian people by 
his life work, as Michael Angelo. Dante and Galileo 
were men, too, who were celebrated in their day and 
generation. Dante for his writings, and Galileo for 
his astronomical works. A shower after we returned 
from our sight seeing. The temperature is about 80 
degrees. There were six two-horse carriages on the 
drive. Via Delia Vicnanuova. 

Tuesday, June 14, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Cloudy. 
It has been raining. Breakfasted and took a walk : 
On a monument, Cosmvs Med. Magn. Dux Etrvrrial, 
A. D. M D ly X X . Yesterday we passed a wall that 
had the mark of a house of ill-fame emblazoned on it. 
There are numerous automobiles in Florence. Men 
and women all work in Florence, which accounts for 
their fine physical condition, notwithstanding they are 
wine bibbers. In my walk this morning I passed a 
shoemaker's shop, a saddlery and harness shop, car- 
penter's shop, sculpture and furniture maker. We 
lunched at 12.30 p. m., and started in six two-horse 



38 All Roads Lead to Rome 

carriages to the depot at 2.00 p. m., and left dear old 
Florence behind. We left the depot at 2.30 p. m. 
There was a shower immediately after leaving Flor- 
ence. On the way we passed through a country 
which presented scenery that is beautiful surpassing 
anything I have ever seen in my travels before. The 
country on the route abounds with vineyards of grape, 
olive groves and agricultural products. Florence is 
surrounded by mountains, a part of the Appenine 
system. We passed Victoria Galileo Cemetery. We 
finally came to the end of the valley by passing under 
a tunnel, then a valley opened up, and then a tunnel, 
till we had passed 48 tunnels with an intermission of 
valleys between tunnels. The intermissions between 
tunnels were short and long. We ran a long distance 
before we passed under the last of the 48 tunnels. 
After we left Bologne we passed through a very level 
and productive plain that reminded me of our West- 
ern prairies, and this scenery continued till darkness 
overtook us. The last scene were the foothills of the 
Appenines. We arrived at Venice at 10.30 p. M. 
The train ran between bodies of waters for some dis- 
tance before we arrived at the depot. When we 
reached Venice gondolas conveyed us to the Grand 
Hotel, and I went to my room, 242. We took din- 
ner on the train. We crossed the Po river in our 
journey. The distance from Florence to Venice is 
about 240 miles. 

My room is covered with a Brussels carpet, and is 
8 feet by 15 feet, with two windows with shutter win- 
dows opening inward, three lights in one shutter and 
six lights in both shutters, lace curtains, outside 



All Roads Lead to Rome 39 

blinds to be raised and lowered, bureau with mirror, 
wasbstand, two cushioned chairs, one larger than 
the other, chamber case, towel rack, a small table, 
temporary arrangement to hang clothes on, don't be- 
long to the room, single narrow bed, wooden bed- 
stead, a heating apparatus made of stone which burns 
coal. 

Wednesday, June 15, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Break- 
fasted and then writing. Venice is in the Adriatic sea, 
and one can only see the city by being conveyed about 
in gondolas. We visited the Bridge of Sighs. We 
went through the dungeon. I saw the place of exe- 
cution and the cell that lyord Byron spent twenty-four 
hours in to get himself in proper condition before he 
wrote the " Childe Harold ;" the senate chamber of 
fifteenth century. I saw an old building that was 
built in 95 A. D. Our hotel has an annex to it. We 
take our meals in the main building and sleep in the 
annex. The annex is connected with the main build- 
ing by a bridge. In St. Mark's Square there are 2,000 
pigeons in it now, whose ancestors were imported from 
Constantinople in the thirteenth century. The Doge 
in the sixth century, Napoleon in the seventeenth 
century. There are in Venice 172 islands connected, 
and 122 islands disconnected, and 450 bridges. St. 
Mark's Cathedral is a beautiful work of architecture, 
by Michael Angelo, a. d. 1492. Vestry rooms, fif- 
teenth century, St. Mark's Place, sixteenth century, 
Doge, ninth century. I saw the portico on which the 
Doge was crowned. Bridge of Sighs, 1450- 1605 ; 
Venice is supplied with water from hills, in lead pipes 
45 miles away, since the sixteenth century. I saw a 



40 All Roads Lead to Rome 

picture entitled "Glory of Paradise." I saw in the 
palace in which the Doge was crowned. Golden, or 
room where wise men of the sixteenth century as- 
sembled. I saw the room in which Robert Brown- 
ing died, and house in which Lord Byron lived, 
St. Thomas Cathedral, Frari Church, 1450, Monu- 
ment to Canova, Wagener. The house in which 
Shiloh lived, the Market, Court of Justice, Bridge of 
Rialti. Plague commenced in 1255. This afternoon 
we took a gondola ride. The roofs of the houses, 
which are five or six stories high, are covered with 
clay tile. Venice is more than a thousand years old. 
The town was built in the Adriatic Sea to protect 
themselves from their enemies. My own opinion of 
it is that it is a great disease producer, and for this 
reason alone it should be destroyed. Thunder shower 
when I went to bed at 9.00 p. m. 

Thursday, June 16, 1910. — Up at 5.00 A, M. Took 
a cup of tea at breakfast. I ate no dinner. After 
dinner I went out with the party to the watering 
place, in a steamboat that plied between Venice and 
watering place. A five minutes' walk between 
where the landing of the steamboat brought me 
to the watering place. Some of our party went in 
to bathe. The watering place was a nice place on the 
Adriatic Sea. It was quite a beer drinking place. I 
walked back to the boat that conveyed me to Venice. 
I walked to the hotel. I ate very little dinner. I 
saw a picture to-day, the largest one in the world — 75 
feet by 37 feet. Mr. and Mrs. Watsou left the party. 

Friday, June 17, 1910. — Up at 5.00 A. m. Cloudy. 
Shower this morning. Left Hotel le Grand at 



All Roads Lead to Rome 41 

8.00 A. M., and depot at 9.00 A. m., and arrived at Mi- 
lan at 1. 00 p. M., a distance of 140 miles from Venice. 
We ran through a dead level agricultural country, 
mountains on the south. Running between the Ap- 
penine mountains on the south, and the Alps moun- 
toins on the north. Country abounds with grape 
vineyards, trees in rows. Alps disappearing. Moun- 
tains disappearance. Wide scope of agricultural 
country on either side. We passed Garga lake. 
The country through which we passed was beauti- 
ful and productive. Rows of trees or rows of grape- 
vines seemed to separate the fields from one another. 
Oats, wheat, com, vegetables and produce of all kinds, 
grow in this part of the country. We passed Brescia. 
St. Dellegraph Cathedral, Milan, built in the fourteenth 
century, celebrated for its many columns inside. I 
saw a picture that was painted in a. d. 1494. I 
walked up a steeple 190 feet high. A priest jumped 
from this steeple to-day. The architecture of the 
cathedral is unique and pretty. There are pictures 
in the windows by Bertelle, who was four years in 
painting them. Doors only four years old. Doors 
of St. Ambrose, A. d. 380, St. Ambrose Church, 350 
a. d.. Pope Pius in ninth century, old fort re- 
paired four years ago. Arch Triumph Napoleon III. 
We drove through the city in six two-horse car- 
riages. There are many parks. There is a boule- 
vard twenty miles around the city. The city of 
Milan contains 625,000 inhabitants. The streets are 
paved with square blocks of all sizes, and also the 
pavements ; no curbstones. The buildings are six 
stories high. The city is governed by the King. 



42 All Roads Lead to Rome 

There are cobble-stone streets. They have electric 
cars. The carriages are modern, and so are the auto- 
mobiles. I have seen only two carts and no don- 
keys here. Milan is a clean city. We stop at the 
Hotel Continental; my room is i68, 12x24 feet, one 
window, two door windows, three lights in each door, 
inside shutters, bureau with mirror, three cushioned 
chairs, one larger than the other two, narrow iron 
bedstead, head and foot-boards handsomely painted, 
writing table, washstaud with mirror, clothes hanger, 
floor covered with Brussels carpet, hotel heated with 
steam, electric light, elevator in hotel. The town is 
well laid out. The streets are wide. A clothes-press 
with a mirror in the door, a stand for grip, an iron 
railing three feet high outside the window. The Ca- 
thedral in Milan cost in labor alone $150,000,000. 
There is $150,000,000 of gold deposited in vaults. 

Beautiful dining room in Grand Hotel Continen- 
tal, and beautiful, expensive painted ceiling. Out- 
side blinds slide in the wall. Breakfast, 7.00 A. m.; 
lunch, 1. 00 p. M.; dinner, 7.00 p. m. Cloudy. 

Saturday, June 18, 1910. — Up at 5.00 A. m. Cloudy. 
Took a walk to a square that has a monument erected 
in memory of Leonardo MDCCCIyXX. Milan gets 
her water from Tacino. The doors entering this 
hotel were very large, six inches thick. I could 
hardly swing them. We left the hotel at 12.00 m., 
in an automobile and a two-horse carriage. The 
party went to the hotel at Milan in automobiles, 
and enjoyed trip to the hotel. The party left the 
depot at 12.40 p. M. For about twenty miles passed 
through an agricultural and productive country. 



All Roads Lead to Rome 43 

About 2.CX) p. M. we crossed into Switzerland. We 
passed in our journey from Milan to the Lucerne 
under 67 tunnels, one tunnel 20 miles long. We 
were sixteen minutes passing through it. We took 
dinner on the train. I was nearly perished on the 
train for a drink of water. After 20 miles run we ran 
into a very productive valley between the snow- 
clad Alps, where many villages were clustered along 
the foot of the Alps. There was a river running 
between two mountains and river was enlarged by 
streams of snow water rushing down the mountains 
on either side, the sides of which were nearly per- 
pendicular. Kach stream had a waterfall. We saw 
clouds on mountains below their summits. We ar- 
rived at Grand Hotel du lyac, at I,ucerne, at 7.00 
p. M. From the window of Grand Hotel du I^ac, I 
see a light on the top of the high mouniain, that 
with the beautiful silvery moon shining near the 
lighted snow-clad mountain with a clear sky, is a 
view one don't have the opportunity to witness many 
times in a lifetime. The snow-clad Alps, the many 
valleys beneath, the river, the rivulets rushing down 
the sides of the snow-clad mountains, with their 
cataracts, into the river, the productive valley cer- 
tainly presents a beautiful scene. 

A flood in this valley occurred about a week ago, 
which destroyed a section of the railroad over which 
we traveled. The waters of lake lyucerne were raised 
by the flood so that many of the buildings in Lu- 
cerne were flooded. Grand Hotel de Lac was flooded. 
Near Altdorf, in lake Lucerne, is where William Tell 
shot the apple ofi" his son's head. The fences in 



44 All Roads Lead to Rome 

Switzerland are wooden and stone. The roofs are 
gravel, slate and shingle. A Swiss house has large 
eaves to them. My room, 104, 12x24 feet, narrow 
wooden bedstead, feather bed for covering, chamber 
case, stand for grip, writing table, two cane chairs, 
sofa like my own, floor, wood tile with mats, wash- 
stand — it is really a bureau, pitcher and bowl, clothes 
press with hooks to hang clothes on, a mirror in 
the door and one over the washstand, door, windows, 
with one large light in each window, lace curtains, 
outside blinds that slide up. 

Sunday, June 19, 1910. — Up at 6.30 A. m., and 
wrote till 8.00 a. m., when I took -breakfast. At 
9.00 A. M. we took a trip by boat to Rigi Kulm. 
At 11.00 A. M. we took the inclined plane, and ar- 
rived at the summit of Regi, 5,600 feet high, at 
12.00 M. The party then took lunch. We had a 
fine view of surrounding scenery. The most inter- 
esting feature to me was its geological lessons. All 
rocks along the inclined plane and at its summit, 
were composed of conglomerated pebbles, which had 
been united together a long time ago under water, 
and then by internal upheaval, when the Alps moun- 
tains were formed, were placed where they are now. 
The Alps are formed by many high peaks, some 
higher than another. It is quite cool since we came 
to Lucerne. It is a very pretty scene to look down 
on Lake Lucerne from the summit, Rigi Kulm. One 
hundred other snow-clad mountain peaks can be 
seen. We left the top of Regi Kulm at 3.00 p. m., 
and arrived at the bottom of the inclined plane at 
4.00 P. M. There we took a boat that landed us in 



All Roads Lead to Rome 45 

Lucerne at 5.30 p. m. From Milan to Lucerne is 
156 miles. The number of ray .room is 104. Lucerne 
has 50,000 inhabitants. The people of Lucerne are 
church going people. This morning at 9 o'clock 
the streets were full of people going to church. 
They were well dressed, thrifty people. There is a 
balcony outside the window. The streets are paved 
with block stones and asphalt. Curb-stones are a 
foot wide. I went to bed at 9.00 p. m. 

Monday, June 20, 1910. — I met two gentlemen from 
York, Pennsylvania. One was a Lutheran clergy- 
man. We walked to see the lion carved in the 
rock, or Glacier Garden, Lucerne. 

Attestation. 

In the autumn of 1872, Mr. Amrein-Troller was 
was having a cellar in proximity of the monument 
of the Lion, at Lucerne. After having removed a 
stratum of arable earth, several feet in thickness, 
and another layer of shingles, the workman struck 
upon the firm gray rock of the country, in which were 
sunk many deep excavations, cauldron shaped, at the 
bottom of which lay large round blocks of Alpine 
rock. I was called in to examine the nature of the 
surface, which was so soon to be destroyed by further 
digging and blasting. Along the sides of this first 
Glacier Mill several more were discovered. Encour- 
aged by competent men, the owner determined not to 
destroy the rock, but rather to embellish it by planta- 
tions, and so to render it accessible to such as felt an 
interest in these wonderful natural phenomena. 

There can be no doubt that these cauldron-looking 



46 All Roads Lead to Rome 

excavations owe their origin to the action of erosions 
at the foot of cascades. The round boulders, seen at the 
bottom of the mills have been whirled about water and 
have polished the mills by friction. It is in vain we look 
for the cliflfs from which the water mast have fallen in 
a torrent upon the surface of the rock ; but what we 
do notice is, that this surface is furrowed and scratched 
between the mills, as only glaciers can belabor their 
rocky beds. The boulders that lay in the mills are 
erratic, i. <?., have been dragged to this place by the 
glaciers of an epoch long past, from the innermost 
parts of the Alps. Many of them, which were be- 
fore the excavations, covered with layers of detritus 
and arable land, show the characteristic furrows and 
scratches of the stone blocks which are caught 
between glacier and rock, and have been polished by 
the slow, forward progress of the former. The holes 
of L,ucerne have, incontestably, been hollowed out by 
the torrents of melted snow that rushed down the 
steep end of the formerly mighty glacier, or rushed 
through the ice crevices down to the ground, and the 
now disappeared cliff was glacier ice. It was in those 
long bygone days, when the glaciers were descending 
from the Alps, and had extended as far, even, as the 
Jura mountains, that mills of the Glacier Garden were 
formed. The Grant Pots were filled by the moraines 
from a glacier giving way under the effect of a warmer 
climate, and the debris brought down by the torrent, 
and remained thus hidden till they were exposed to 
view in the autumn of 1872. 

lyike discoveries have been made, as is well known, 
in Scandinavia, and other parts of Switzerland, but 



All Roads Lead to Rome 47 

the glacier mills in lyucerne surpass any of those by 
the perfection of their forms and the distinctness of 
the phenomenon. To meet the doubts expressed by 
some visitors, whether man's hand had not assisted 
nature, I hereby testify, both as a geologist and as an 
eye witness of the first unexpected discovery, as also 
of the subsequent careful excavations of this so won- 
derful phenomenon, that the hand of man had nothing 
whatever to do with the formation of these glacier 
mills and polished surface of the glacier, nor with the 
erratic boulders that lie about, or in those mills, but 
that we have here to deal with a marvelous operation 
of free organic nature, a relic of a time when these 
countries were not yet inhabited by man. 

Albert Heim, 

Professor of Geology in the Federal Polytechnic 
School and University of Zurich. 

Zurich, 187b. 

G1.ACIER Garden, Lucerne — Gi^etchergarten. 

A. 

Explanation of the Geological Past of the Glacier Garden, 
by Dr. Albert Heint, Professor of Geology at the Univer- 
sity and Polytechnic School of Zurich. 

I-II. These are remains dating from the period of 
the glaciers, a period in the history of our globe which 
takes us back far beyond the oldest traditions and his- 
torical records. In those days almost the whole of 
Switzerland, and indeed the greatest part of the north- 
ern hemisphere, were buried under immense masses 
of ice, as geologists can now prove with the greatest 
certainty, with here and there an oasis inhabited by 
animals long ago extinct. Before that time we have 



48 All Roads Lead to Rome 

a period when ocean covered the land, and an age 
when half- tropical heat produced tropical forests in 
Switzerland. 

Up to the year 1872 these marvels of nature lay still 
hidden under the detritus ( moraines ) carried along, 
centuries ago, by the moving Reuss glacier, and un- 
der the humus ( soil ) of a green meadow. 

A mere chance ( see page 3 ) led to the discovery of 
a glazier-hole. Researches were then continued till 
the year 1875 and, after the moraine or detritus had all 
been removed, wonderful erosions made by nature 
were discovered, as well as petrifactions of tropical 
animals and plants, which the visitor will best inspect 
in the following order : 

No. I is one of the gigantic Pots or Glacier Holes, 
with erosions caused by the glacier. They owe their 
existence to the whirling of the stones driven round 
and round by force of the melted ice. In geology 
these holes or pots are known by the name of glacier 
mills. The stones whirled around by the water, 
ground the rock, and at the same time polished them- 
selves, as the two samples of mill-stones lying in this 
mill amply proves. 

No. 2 is a Glazier Mill with grinders left ; most of 
them have been removed in order not to impede the 
inspection of the mill. The spiral windings, worn by 
the immense force of the water, falling from a great 
height of the glacier and whirling round from east to 
west, are clearly visible. 

No. 3 is the Mill that was first discovered of all, 
and had the sad fate of being almost destroyed, the 



All Roads Lead to Rome 49 

value of the interesting discovery not being yet 
known. 

No. 4 is a layer of Rocks abounding with fossils of 
sea shells, showing that the whole country situated at 
the foot of the Alps was covered by the sea. 

No. 5 shows the petrifaction of palm-leaf discovered 
by the breaking of a stone near the garden. 

On this small spot of ground you have, therefore, 
before your eyes different pages of the history of our 
earth ; for the country where we are now, once pre- 
sented various aspects : No. 4 dates from the period 
when the ocean covered the land. No. 5 represents 
the period when tropical heat produced tropical for- 
ests. In the Glacier Mills we have the debris left by 
the ice that once covered all the Northern Hemis- 
phere. Thus the aspect of earth was changed in the 
course of millions of years. 

No. 6 is another Glacier Mill, the top of which has 
been slightly injured. Its spiral windings, however, 
are very distinct. There are two mill-stones, one of 
which appears to have formed a complete circle, and 
the other a half circle. 

No. 7. A mighty mill-stone (iiocwt. ), that was 
excavated in year 1875, out of the depths of No. 11, 
the largest glacier pot. 

No. 8 shows an area of full grindings, furrows and 
scratches, made by the Glacier of the Reuss, under 
which the rocks were, as it moved along. The inden- 
tations displayed were caused by the sharp edges of the 
boulders which the glacier dragged along in its 
course. 



50 All Roads Lead to Rome 

No. 9. Various smaller and larger beginnings of 
such mills. 

No. 10 is a Glacier Mill, with a mill-stone of granite 
from the Gotthard, 

No. 1 1 is the finest and largest glazier mill that has 
ever been found. The mound covering it was re- 
moved in 1875- 1876. The diameter of the Mill is 
26 feet 25 inches, its depth 29 feet 53 inches. At the 
bottom several holes of Mills between the crevasses 
of the rock will be perceived. Leaving this grand 
workshop of nature we enter into the Relief Gallery. 

No. 12. The old model of the Muota Valley, near 
Bruunen, on the L,ake of IV Cantons, representing 
the battles which took place there between the Rus- 
sians and the French, on October i, 1799. 

Though not belonging to the scientific part of the 
natural history, this model interests all the visitors to 
the Glacier Garden, thanks to its faithful reproduction 
of the romantic Muota Valley, and the positions occu- 
pied by the Russian and French armies on the ist of 
October, 1799. 

The following is a short account of this memorable 
day : 

General Souvoroff's victorious army having crossed 
the St. Gotthard, arrived in Fluelen to find that the 
enemy had done away with all the boats, thus com- 
pelling them to take once more to the mountains ; 
thus they were obliged to cross the Kensigkulm Pass, 
the oxen road along the lake not being at time yet 
constructed. The passage over the Alps lasted three 
days and three nights. Early on September 28th 
Souvoroff arrived in Muoto Valley, and was informed 



All Roads Lead to Rome 51 

by the Abbess of the Cloister, of the fall of Zurich, 
and of the Austrians' hasty retreat from Switzerland. 
Most unwillingly did Souvoroflf resolve to make his 
troops retreat over the Progel. His rear-guard ar- 
rived in the night of the 29th of September, into val- 
ley. Meanwhile some French troops occupying the 
entrance to the valley, attacked the Russians at day- 
break on the ist of October, The Russians resisted 
for a long time, but General I^ecourbe's army ap- 
peared suddenly in direction of Brunnen, and threat- 
ened to cut off the Russians. They were obliged to 
withdraw behind the bridge. In the Grossmatt, be- 
fore coming to the church and the cloister, Rosenberg 
placed his starving troops for the decisive battle. At 
the risk of their lives the Cossacks ventured into the 
waves of the high-swollen Muota, and cavalry of 
both sides charged each other with terrible violence. 
A frightful slaughter followed, but the impetuosity of 
the Russians, that bordered on despair, conquered in 
the end. Our model illustrates this part of the bat- 
tle, step by step the French were obliged to yield. In 
vain do the officers attempt to restore order, and re- 
new the fray. Disorder sets in among the ranks of 
the French, and all flee in the utmost confusion 
toward the end of the valley. Resistance against the 
war-like courage of the Russians was no longer possi- 
ble. The warmly contested stronghold was at last 
taken and the Russian flag planted thereon. With 
this Russian feat of arms the after defeat of the 
French was completed. Henceforth their impetuous 
flight took a terrible form. A powder wagon stopped 
the small entrance of the bridge. The fleeing masses 



52 All Roads Lead to Rome 

pressed ever harder and harder on the partly re- 
paired bridge, which the Russians had burnt after 
the retreat in the morning. On this shaky bridge the 
fugitives and the fresh reinforcements from Messena 
met. The shock was terrible. Cannons, wagons full 
of wounded men, and horses, were hurled in great 
numbers into the roaring waves of the Muota, down 
into the dreadful abyss. Already a half brigade had 
thrown their weapons, when, with the approaching 
night, General Lecourbe came from Brunnen with a 
second division of his brigade, and the Russians with- 
drew into the ravines of the mountain-valley. La- 
courbe, after learning the fate of the French army, 
gave up all further pursuit of the Russians. On this 
bloody field the French lost over one thousand men in 
killed and wounded, besides all those who were taken 
prisoners. 

For the convenience of visitors of the Glacier-Gar- 
den, is here found an entrance to the 

Labyrinth : This is a Moorish palace built after the 
celebrated Alhambra in Grenada. Through the mag- 
nificent galleries and palm corridors, with their inter- 
esting groups, we wend our way to the lion court- 
yard, where we find the entrance to the kaleidoscope 
with its wonderful illuminations and reflections. 

A visit to the Labyrinth is very amusing and should 
not be missed. 

No. 13. Scientific Model of a normal glacier with 
its erratic phenomena. Scale i : 18,000 ; constructed 
by Dr. A. Heim, Professor of Geology at the Federal 
Polytechnic and at the University of Zurich. 

Glaciers are ice streams which have their origin in 



All Roads Lead to Rome 53 

the old snowfields, and move slowly down towards the 
valley. These snowfields are- formed in the region 
of eternal snow, by the successive falls of snow or 
rain, in the highest valleys of the Alps, as well as in 
the large northern and southern latitudes in the in- 
terior of the polar continent. By the sinking of the 
old layers, and the pressure of fresh falls of snow 
spreading over the old ones, the snow that was at first 
loose, granulates (that is what is called nevi), and 
real fields of snow can only be formed where these 
masses accumulate in the cauldron-shaped valleys of 
the high Alps. In process of time, this granulated 
snow congeals more and more in the deepish layers 
( strata ) of the snowfields, escapes like a stream of 
ice from the nethermost part of it, and flows then 
downward in close connection with the configuration 
of the road leading down to the valley, getting 
broader and narrower with it and leaping over every 
obstacle it meets in its way. 

Our model represents a so-called composed glacier 
that offers the sundry essential and characteristic phe- 
nomenon of such a one. The collecting ground con- 
sists of a larger and a smaller cavity. In some places 
small detached glaciers join themselves to the main 
glacier in its downward course. 

We see that it is out of the cavity that the ice 
tongue actually arises, and the nature of a glacier is 
thus most evident. Here the motion is much more 
rapid than it was in the cavity. The reflection from 
the rocks on each side produces a stronger melting of 
the snow on the edges of the glacier, which is the reason 
why the surface, that was concave ( hollow ) above, 



54 ^^^ Roads Lead to Rome 

becomes convex ( arched ). On both edges we see 
the numerous crevices pointing slantingly towards the 
middle, which indicates a stronger movement in the 
centre. On the steep side of the valley are formed 
transverse clefts which, joining themselves with those 
on the edges, form a system of arched crevices, curved 
towards the centre. The glacier terminates in a thin, 
blueish, half transparent slip of ice, over some old 
moraine ground. 

In the places where the old snow no longer covers 
the glacier, we see numerous meandering brooks have 
arisen out of the melting snow, flowing away and 
disappearing in a broad chimney -shaped crevice. At 
the lower end of the tongue of the glacier the muddy 
torrent escapes out of the large vault of blue melted 
ice. 

The debris that rolled down the slope of the glacier, 
has accumulated in lines of detritus which have been 
carried down into the valley . These difierent moraines 
have, according to the rocks from which they origi- 
nate, different colors are ranged on the glacier, from 
left to right, in moraine zones, in the same order as in 
their starting point above in the cavities. They do 
not amalgamate on the glacier. 

The perfect polishing of the surface of the rock on 
the edges and at the end of the lower part of the gla- 
cier, is an evident proof that our glacier was formerly 
much more powerful. The glacier torrent has 
ploughed its winding furrow, composed of erosine 
caldrons, deep into the scratched, furrowed rocks of the 
polished stone of the glacier. As much as the scale 
allowed the contrast of forms between the torrent 



All Roads Lead to Rome 55 

erosion and the glacier erosion has been carefully ren- 
dered. The dij0Ferent phenomena are all represented 
in their right and mutual proportions of size, and have 
been exaggerated either as to color or form. The po- 
sition is natural and therefore possible. 

Those who have roamed among the glaciers will 
fancy they recognize everywhere well known spots. 
We strongly recommend to the visitor to examine the 
relief at a distance through a telescope or an opera- 
glass, and to look at it from every point of view. 

No. 14. Lake Dwellings, after Dr. Ferd. Keller. 

The traces (vestiges) of the first men in Europe 
reach, as the astounding discoveries of modern times 
prove, to the last great period of the formation of the 
world before the present state of nature, and at all 
events many thousands of years before our era. 
Already in those times Switzerland was inhabited by 
men who made their dwelllings in the caves of the 
earth. These aborigines were not skilled in agricul- 
ture or the rearing of cattle, neither were they ac- 
quainted with metals. 

Though we do not know anything about the fate of 
these aborigines, yet we may, from the proofs in hand, 
assume with certainty that, at times which lie far be- 
yond any written records, the ground and population 
of Switzerland, as well as those of Europe, under- 
went many transformations. The objects that have 
been discovered take us back to an epoch, when the 
climate became gradually mild and pleasant as it is 
now-a-days. Our plants, corn and fruits, spring up, 
whilst the reindeer, mammouth, rhinoceros, vanish. 
After the men of the caves, belonging to the hunting 



56 All Roads Lead to Rome 

period, come the inhabitants of the huts, who culti- 
vate the land. 

The men of those remote times did not, however, 
live like those of the present time. Their habitations 
were mostly constructed above the water, on the lakes. 
These are lake dwellings and give their name to the 
whole time previous to the age of civilization. Those 
lake dwellings have not been known to us very long. 
It was while digging at low water, in the lake of Zu- 
rich, in the winter of 1853-1854, that the unexpected 
light was thrown on the science of these dwellings. 
In two diflfereut places at Obermeilen, to the great as- 
tonishment of the workmen, there appeared the tops 
of stakes and a great number of stag horns ( of Cer- 
vus elephas ), and of various tools in stone, horn,'&c. 
Dr. Ferd. Keller, of Zurich, who has been for the last 
twenty years making researches, and studying the pre- 
historical time with the help of antiquities, went to Mei- 
lin, and at once felt convinced that the discovered ob- 
jects were the work of that people who had lived in 
the country centuries before the beginning of our era, 
and even before the time of the Roman domination : 
the Celts. In a short time there were, not only in the 
lakes of Switzerland, but also in Italy, France, the 
south of Germany, and Austria, lake dwellings dis- 
covered. The supposition of Keller as to the manner 
of living and origin of the people, were confirmed in 
every direction and in a marvelous manner. There 
have been found in Switzerland about 250 such lake 
villages differing as much in size as the village of the 
present day. Thus the strange history of remote 
times lies pretty clear and unveiled before us. The 



All Roads Lead to Rome 57 

model before our eyes of a lacrustrian settlement has 
been constructed after the researches and discoveries 
of Keller, the father of Swiss modern researches of an- 
tiquities. At some distance from the shore of the lake 
we observe, above the water, some square, low huts, 
with gabled roofs made of plaited work, clay and 
straw, built on an extensive wooden structure. A 
long narrow path connects this wooden island with 
the main land. The necessity of protecting their own 
persons against their enemies, or wild animals, may 
have been the principal cause of this way of building. 
It offered also great advantages for fishing. A num- 
ber of fish, drawn hither by the refuse, collected no 
doubt around their habitations, and were easly caught. 
The lakes offered also much better means of commu- 
nication than the large primitive forests that covered 
the country and rendered settlements and traJBSc so 
much more diflScult. What a busy life reigns on 
these lake dwellings ! There we see fishermen stand- 
ing with their nets and rods angling for fish, or row- 
ing about in their canoes made out of hollowed-out 
trunks and watching for their prey. Some are 
spinning and weaving before the house, while 
others are hammering and making all sorts of tools 
and implements. The children are playing, and 
some men, returning from hunting, carry on a strong 
pole, the game they have killed. 

Arranged around our model may be seen some 
genuine flint or horn tools, such as hatchets, chisels, 
with fragments of their handles, together with pins, 
and charcoaled remnants of fishing nets, plaitings, 
thread and cords, all of them articles of such per- 



58 All Roads Lead to Rome 

fection and finish, that no one could take them to be 
the products of such remote ages, if they had not 
really been found among the remains of these dwell- 
ings. 

We find in cabinet against the wall a fine collec- 
tion, being part of that belonging to the late Mr. C. 
C. Amrein Buhler, Professor in St. Gallen (f 1898 ) 
and consisting of about 140 instruments of stone, 6 
of wood, 66 bone, moreover about 190 objects, or 
rather characteristic fragments of earthenware, divers 
fruits, leather, and a number of teeth, bones, antlers of 
horns of animals. Most of these objects were found 
by Professor Amrein himself during the autumn and 
winter of 1872-1873, at the northern extremity of the 
lake of Baldegg. The spot where these lacustrian 
remains were found, from two to three acres in size, 
is situated on the tongue of land, stretching a good 
way into the lake ; it was formerly entirely, and is 
even now-a-days partly, under water. It is bordered 
in the east and north by the hillocks formed by the 
moraines of that glacier to which we owe the origin 
of the mill-pots of this garden. 



The Lion Monument. — This famous masterpiece is 
dedicated to memory of the Swiss guard of lycwis 
XVI. It represents in a touching manner their 
fidelity and bravery, when, during the French Revo- 
lution in 1872, they laid down their arms by order 
of the King, and fell a prey to the fury of the popu- 
lace, as they retreated unarmed into the Tuilleries. 
The model was made by the renowned Danish sculp- 



All Roads Lead to Rome 59 

tor, Thorwaldsen, and was executed from 1 8 19- 182 1, 
by ly. Ahorn, from Constance. The monument 
measures with the grotto 13 metres, the lion itself 
9 metres. A large grotto is hewn into the natural 
sandstone and here rests carved out of the rock a 
dying lion of mighty forms and a most beautiful and 
touching expression. His body is pierced by a spear. 
Full of pain the noble animal has broken down, 
still protecting while dying, the scutcheon of the 
Bourbons. Above the monument can be read carved 
in the rock, the words, ' ' To the fidelity and bravery 
of the Swiss, beneath it the names of the twenty- 
six officers who fell on this terrible day. That, 
with about eleven basins I have enumerated, that 
were worn there by the gyrations of the running 
water in the years gone, and the crystal masses, was 
truly an interesting work of nature, 

An old wooden foot-bridge over the lyuzerne lake, 
600 years old, that has stood through all the revo- 
lutions of Switzerland. We were in the Maze of 
Mirrors. I^uzerne is a great watering-place. 

Tuesday, June 21, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Clear. 
Left Lucerne at 10.00 A. m. After leaving Lucerne we 
traveled through a well cultivated agricultural dis- 
trict. There are wire and hedge fences. The moun- 
tains are cultivated. There are an abundance of 
fruit trees in the country. I see women working in 
the harvest field. I saw one mowing machine. We 
are passing through a mountainous district, pine tim- 
ber on either side of railroad. We passed by a pile 
of stones, as if carried from the top of the mountain. 



6o All Roads Lead to Rome 

The roads are fine, with wood fences along either 
side of the road. We have a mountain climbing lo- 
comotive, which goes up one side of the mountain 
to the summit, and down the other side. There are 
villages clustered at the bottom of the mountains. 
The mountains and the valley are well cultivated, 
and houses abound to the very summit of the moun- 
tains. Mountain streams are running down the sides 
of the mountain every here and there. There is 
one stream named the Gneiss-rack, that is remarka- 
ble for its size. We passed Brienz. The country 
before we come to Brienz, has checkered scenery, 
with plots of ground and buildings. We take a 
steamboat from Brienz, over the Brienz lake to In- 
terlaken, and arrived at Interlaken, via Meringen, at 
4 p. M. The scenery from Luzerne to Interlaken was 
picturesque. The distance of Luzerne to Interlaken 
is 1 20 miles. We took lunch on the mountain. The 
houses along the route were roofed with tile and 
shingle. One house was roofed with stone. The 
buildings of Luzerne were six-stories, and covered 
with clay tile and gravel roofs. The hotels Metro- 
pole and Monopole, Interlaken, and room 113 is 9 
feet by 15 feet, floor wooden blocks, covered with mat, 
narrow bedstead covered with feather bed, a sofa, two 
cane-seated chairs, grip stand, chamber case, wash- 
stand, table mirror, clothes press, window with two 
doors, a light in each door, blinds outside, lace cur- 
tains, a transom over the incoming door. There are 
mountains all around Interlaken. At sunset one of 
the mountains appeared very pretty when lighted up 
by the sun. 



All Roads Lead to Rome 6i 

Wednesday, June 22, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a.m. Cloudy. 
We left the hotel in two omnibuses at 8,30 A. m., and 
the depot at 9.00 a. m., for I,auterbrunnen, Wengern 
and Jungfrau, We ascended to the top of Jungfrau 
by a cog-wheel railroad. We took lunch before we 
got to Jungfrau. We went through a tunnel three and 
a-half miles long, chiseled out of solid rock, and at 
the finished end of the tunnel, where we took a peep 
out of the opening in the solid rock guarded by iron 
banister, over the glaciers. At this place I gathered 
up a handful of snow and threw a snow-ball. Dr. 
Brenuemen put his head in my way and I knocked 
his hat off, and it rolled down the snow-clad moun- 
tain, about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. We 
had all sorts of views of valleys and mountain-sides, 
cultivated by the Swiss, who are a very thrifty and a 
hard working class of people. There is an abundance 
of fruit trees of all kinds. Fir trees that are tall and 
slender, abound. Agricultural and horticultural pro- 
ducts of all kinds, are raised. Many streams run 
down over the sides of the snow-clad mountains. The 
houses are covered with clay tiles and slate. All 
houses have wide eaves. I saw women in num- 
bers working in the harvest field. I saw a woman 
mowing with a scythe. Interlaken has a population 
of 5,000. Two two-horse omnibuses brought us to the 
hotel. The place is very picturesque, with mountains 
all around. Rain in the afternoon. Returned to the 
hotel at 7.30 p. M. Pavements of the streets stone and 
asphalt, with a narrow curb. Buildings are six-stories 
high. 

Thursday, June 23, 1910. — Up at 5.00 a. m. Rain. 



62 All Roads Lead to Rome 

The party left the hotel for the depot in two two-horse 
omnibuses at 7.30 A. m., and the depot at 8.00 a. m. 
We saw lake Thun. On the way we passed through 
eight tunnels and over so many valleys. We passed 
Spiez, a town of some size, and a beautiful country. 
Scherzligon, a town at the end of lake Thun. Towns 
all along the route. The Alps mountains diminish as 
we proceed on our journey. The fences are wire and 
hedge. We pass through broad valleys which are 
very fertile. We stopped an hour at Perron. The 
party visited the town. The party went out to see 
Perron, which is a very pretty town. We had a 
very bad lunch on the train. While we were at lunch 
the train ran through a level and a very productive 
part of the country. Farmers are now harvesting. 
We passed through Acron this afternoon. We are 
running through a very beautiful part of the country. 
We passed through Baden. There are mountains near 
Baden. A great many Germans from Baden and its 
vicinity, emigrated to Pittsburg, Pa,, during the last 
century. We arrived at Zurich at 1.20 p. m. I walked 
with Dent along the streets of Zurich, till 2.00 p. M. 
It is quite a large, clean city. We saw some very fine 
cows as we ran along Aar river to Zurich. We passed 
through Aerlikon, Glattbrugg and Bulacli. We left 
Aar river at Zurich. We passed through Glattfelden, 
Egliscan, Jesletter and Altenburg. We arrived at 
Neuhaus.sen at 4.00 p. m., 130 miles from Interlaken, 
and went to Bains et Grand Hotel Schweizerhof, over- 
looking the Falls of the Rhine, presenting the finest 
view I ever saw. My room, 63, has a blocked wooden 
floor, covered with mats. It is 20 feet by 12 feet. 



All Roads Lead to Rome 63 

The furniture consists of narrow Swiss bedstead, with 
a comfort for covering, insteadof a feather bed, cham- 
ber case, three chairs, one a cushioned one, and two 
cane-bottomed ones, sofa, washstand, small mirror 
hanging over it, clothes press, with looking glass in 
the door, one picture, table and second table, with a 
very small mirror on it, a still smaller mirror on the 
stand ; window made door-like, with three lights of 
glass in each door, open inwards, lace curtains, win- 
dow blinds, open on the outside. I can walk out on 
the roof from room of the Bains et Grand Hotel 
Schweizerhof and see the Falls of the Rhine, a beauti- 
ful view, indeed. This is the only hotel at which 
we stopped we had female waiters. The hotel is 
situated on a mountain high above the level of the 
surrounding country. Besides the Falls of the Rhine, 
I can see Neuhausen, with its 2,500 inhabitants, and 
general scope of country in the distance ; electric 
light, and elevator. We were brought to this hotel 
in two two-horse omnibuses and a one-horse carriage. 
Showers. I went to bed at 9 p. m. 

Friday, June 24, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Cloudy. 
The party left the hotel in two two-horse omnibuses, 
at 8.30 A. M., and the depot at 9.30 A. m. We went 
through two tunnels. We followed the Rhine and 
Lake Constance till we took a steamboat to Laudau, 
which was twenty miles away. We took lunch aboard 
the boat. At Laudau we came into Germany. Our 
baggage was inspected on the boat. We passed the 
town of Constance. We observed on the journey to- 
day hedge fences, wire fences and wooden fences. We 
passed a great deal of fir timber. In one place there 



64 All Roads Lead to Rome 

were a great many rocks on top of ground. The farm- 
ers are harvesting. Females were in majority in the 
harvest field. There was a shower this afternoon. 
This afternoon we ran in a valley between mountains, 
a part of the way. The country through which we 
traveled was rolling, fertile, and the farmers had large 
crops. We passed through Guttingen. Before we 
came to Munich, we came through a level and low 
part of the country. Most of the country is pretty. 
We left Switzerland when we came to Laudau. The 
buildings — barns and houses along the route, were 
large. Munich is 200 miles from Newhausen. We 
arrived at Munich, Bavaria, at 6.00 p. m., and were 
conveyed to the Hotel Bellevue in two two-horse om- 
nibuses. My room, 28, is 12 feet by 25 feet, narrow, 
iron bedsteads, covered with feather bed, chamber 
case, two cushioned chairs, one small chair, grip 
stand, table, two mirrors, one washstand, a clothes 
press, Brussels carpet, one window, composed of two 
window doors swinging inward oa hinges, with four 
lights of glass in each door. One picture hung on 
the wall. Munich has 580,000 inhabitants. 

Saturday, June 25, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Cloudy. 
I bought a ticket home on Pennsylvania, Hamburg- 
American line, state room 48, lower birth 4. I took a 
walk around Munich, 

" Wave, Munich, wave? thy banner wave, 
And charge with dreadful chivalry. 
Few, few shall part where many meet, 
The snow shall be their winding sheet, 
And every turf beneath their feet, 
Shall be a soldier's sepulchre." 



All Roads Lead to Rome 65 

Iser river runs through the town of Munich. We 
had lunch at 11.30 A. m., and left the hotel at i.oo 
p. M., in two two-horse omnibuses, for depot, to take 
the train for Oberammergau. We had a great time 
crowding through gates to take train. We ran 
through great forests of fir trees on the journey of 60 
miles to Oberammergau. The fences were hedge and 
wood. The country is mountainous, interspersed with 
valleys. On the route we passed one lake along the 
latter part of journey to-day ; the country was very 
much broken. Farmers were harvesting. As usual 
we see a goodly number of females working in the 
harvest fields. The women keep the streets clean in 
Munich. We arrived at Oberammergau at 4.30 p. m. 
We are stopping at an ordinary private house ( Lud- 
wig's) in the place. The people, with their long 
hair, for the most part, look like wild men and 
women, especially the boys. My room, 14, a snug lit- 
tle room on the first floor, is furnished with narrow 
bedsteads, covered with feather bed, washstand, mir- 
ror, two chairs, one a caned arm chair, table, chamber 
case, the other a small leather seat and leather back 
wooden chair, window, 4 lights of glass, 2 in each 
door, open inward, shutters on the outside. The 
window on the inside of the room was adorned with 
clean linen curtains. The room is 8 feet by 9 feet, 
painted floor, with mats. They have a rule in Ober- 
ammergau not to cut their hair for a year before the 
Passion Play begins, so everybody may have long 
hair. Showers to-da5\ We walked from depot. 
Oberammergau has 1,700 inhabitants. The name of 
the town of Oberammergau comes from ober, mean- 



66 All Roads Lead to Rome 

ing over-ammer, the name of the river running 
through the place, and gau meaning district. Ober- 
ammergau is 60 miles from Munich, in the mountains, 
3,000 feet above the level of the sea. I went to bed 
at 9.00 p. M. 

Sunday, June 26, 1910. — Up at 6,00 A. m. Cloudy. 
Rain. At the Passion Play. I sat eight hours to lis- 
ten to the Passion Play, from 8.00 A. m. till 12.00 m., 
and from 2.00 p. m. till 6.00 p. m. I sat in seat 402. 
There were 4,000 of an audience present. Break- 
fast, 7.00 A. M., dinner, 12.00 m., supper, 7.00 p. m. 
There were forty- one actors and actresses on the main 
platform, whose acting and singing was good. The 
play consisted of the persecution and defence of 
Christ. He was found guilty and sentenced to death 
on the Cross. The acting and singing was good. 
There are 700 actors and actresses who perform on the 
stage, and they are all home talent. A most remarka- 
ble thing that a town of 1,700 inhabitants, should fur- 
nish 700 performers. The inhabitants of Oberammer- 
gau are a good people. They teach by example. 
They indicate goodness in their countenances and in 
their actions. A girl, one of the actresses, helped me 
on with my collar, on Sunday morning. In the after- 
noon, coming from the Passion Play, I got my feet 
wet. In the evening I changed my shoes and stock- 
ings and put on dry stockings and slippers. I went to 
bed at 9 00 p. m. 

Monday, June 27, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a.m. Cloudy. 
When I arose I found my wet shoes on the outside of 
my chamber door, dried, cleaned and polished, by the 
same girl that helped with my collar. We said good- 



All Roads Lead to Rome 67 

bye to our host and hostess, and left in two two-horse 
carriages for the depot. The party left the depot at 
9.00 A. M., for Munich, where we arrived at 11.30 
A. M., and went back to the Hotel Bellevue, I in the 
same room, No. 28. We passed a town by the name 
of Munchen, and also a lake. There are hedge 
fences and wood fences. The roofs are clay, tile and 
shingle. The houses are remarkably large in the 
country. Sometimes the farm-house and barn are 
combined. There are in Munich, also in Oberammer- 
gau, a two-horse carriage with only one horse in it. 
I saw some fine cows at a station we passed this morn- 
ing. There are fine horses in Germany. In Munich 
the trolley cars are painted blue and trimmed with 
white. 

Tuesday, June 28, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a. m. The 
streets of Munich are paved with block stones, the 
curbs about the size of those we have in the United 
States. The pavements are block stones and asphalt. 
The roofs are clay tile. The party was taken out to- 
day in six two-horse carriages. We started at 9.00 
A. M. Great man died in 1408. We visited the Gal- 
lery of the Great Masters, Reuben Hall, Reuben's 
wife, No. I, and Reubens' wife. No. 2, Reubens' paint- 
ings, Vandyke paintings, and the paintings by 
Raphael ; Colbeaugh chandelier ; a military guard oc- 
cupies four squares. Ex- Queen of Naples is stopping 
at the hotel. She stops here ten months in the year. 
We visited the Royal Palace. No intoxicating liquors 
are allowed to be sold on the grounds. We saw the 
Ball Room and Beauty Hall, and all pictures of a cer- 
tain period, among the Royal families and plebeians, 



68 All Roads Lead to Ro7ne 

ordered to be hung on the walls. Reception room for 
royalty and reception room for plebeians, Chinese 
room, Japanese room, Polish room, dining room, Na- 
poleon I room, Maximilian room, Bible room, Richard 
Place, Chandelier that cost 90,000 marks. Pope Pius 
VI room, Joys and Sorrows of Life room. Needle-work 
and Mosaic-work room. 

Afternoon, the party visited, in six two-horse car- 
riages, the Bavarian Museum, which had on exhibi- 
tion their furniture and cooking implements, their 
wearing apparel, their war implements, and how they 
were punished in wrong doing, their instruments of 
torture, the old ships, old flint-lock muskets, flint- 
lock revolvers. We saw Jerusalem, and everything 
that was interesting in the place. 

Maximilian Museum, Maximilian Monument. 

Academy of Painting and Sculpture. 

The water supply of Munich comes from springs in 
the mountains, thirty miles away. The party passed 
a plat of ground the King gave the city for play- 
ground for children. 

Wednesday, June 29, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a. m. 
Cloudy. Showers after dinner. We left the Hotel 
Belleview at 12.15 p- ^m the depot at 12.45 p- m. 
We traveled 220 miles to Heidelburg. I saw a pair 
of oxen in a wagon, and also a dog and woman to a 
wagon, in Munich. There are rests on the streets. 
There are urinals and aborts on the streets of Mu- 
nich. There are fine horses in Munich. In the first 
part of our journey to-day, there were no fences in the 
country. In villages there were pale fences. I see 
some brick houses and some thatched roofs. The 



All Roads Lead to Rome 69 

roofs are generally clay tile. The farmers are harvest- 
ing hay. The country through which we are pass- 
ing now is rolling, with fir trees. We passed under 
eight tunnels. We passed by the towns of Ulm and 
Stuttgart. Stone fences, wire fences, wooden fences 
and hedge fences, abound. We are now passing 
through a mountainous country which broadens out. 
We passed Donan river. We are now passing through 
an agricultural country. Farmers live in villages. 
Passed hop groves, and near Black Forest. Houses in 
the country are large. Men and women work in the 
harvest field. The part of the country we passed 
through after leaving Munich, was a fine level 
country, then passed a rolling country, then it nar- 
rowed down, with fir trees growing on either side, 
then the country was stony, till we passed through a 
tunnel, then we passed by hop groves. Saw the 
Black Forest in the distance. Arrived at Heidelburg 
at 6.30 p. M., and went to the Hotel Grand. The 
Duke of Baden passed by the hotel while we were at 
dinner, 7.30 p. m. Breakfast, 8.30 A. m., lunch, 12.00 
M. My room, 48, is 10 feet by 20 feet, narrow wooden 
bedsteads, and the usual feather bed for covering, 
Brussels carpet, sofa, chamber case, clothes press, 
hooks inside, washstand, satchel stand, heated with 
steam, chairs, one cane-bottom chair, window with 
doors, open inward, three lights of glass in each 
door, lace curtains, iron railing on the outside of win- 
dow. Heidelburg is celebrated for its University. It 
is a city of 30,000 inhabitants. The streets and pave- 
ments are block stone and asphalt, with curb stone. 
The Holy Ghost Church, in which both the Roman 



70 All Roads Lead to Rome 

Catholics and Protestants worship. Went to bed at 
9.00 p. M. 

Thursday, June 30, 1910. — Up at 7.00 a. m. At 
9.00 A. M. the party took a ride around the city in 
six two-horse carriages. We rode up the mountain 
overlooking Heidelburg. There are three mountains 
east of Heidelburg. We saw a building that was 
used as a club house for the students of the University 
of Heidelburg. It is here where the students of the 
University fight their duels. We visited the Univer- 
sity of Heidelburg, and chapel of the University. 
Saw the prison of it. In this prison the students are 
punished for misbehaviour. The side walls and ceiling 
of the prison were covered with portraits of the priso- 
ners, which were painted by themselves. Each priso- 
ner painted his portrait and exposed it to view on the 
wall. There was a prisoner in the prison to-day when 
we visited the prison. He said he was put in for six 
days for threshing a policeman, and that the first few 
days spent there was a novelty, but it had become 
irksome. His time will expire to-morrow morning. 
In our visit to the old castle I saw two binns, one 
held 10,000 gallons of beer, and the other 40,000 gal- 
lons. The baker house was built in 1524 ; it is 90 
feet high. The powder tower was built in 1469 ; 
there are 65 steps to the top of the tower. The 
chemical was built in 1556. Emperor Hall, Glass 
Hall, Bell's Tower, and Manheim. We left the hotel 
at 2.00 p. M., and walked to the depot. We left the 
depot after 2.00 p. m., and arrived at Mayence at 
4.00 p. M., and went to the Hotel de HoUande, where 
we arrived in carriages at 4.30 p. m. My room is 



All Roads Lead to Rome 71 

127, covered with Brussels carpet, sofa, chamber case, 
narrow, wooden bedsteads, no- feather bed for a cov- 
ering, but comforts instead, one small cushioned 
chair, table, washstand, mirror, satchel stand, win- 
dow, composed of two doors, one large light of glass 
in each door that open inward, lace curtains, old-fash- 
ioned hanging blinds on the outside. From Heidel- 
burg to Mayence is 60 miles. We passed through 
two tunnels from Heidelburg to Mayence, and agri- 
cultural country. Mayence is on the Rhine. The 
streets are paved with stone block, wooden block, 
macadamized and asphalt. The pavements are paved 
with stone block and asphalt. The roofs are cov- 
ered with clay tile and slate. Mayence is a very 
pretty town, with 80,000 inhabitants. The people are 
well dressed, fine looking class of people. I^ast even- 
ing I walked to Joannem Genefleisch de Gutenberg's 
Monument. Monument erected in 1837. There were 
two thunder showers to-day. I went to bed at 9.00 p.m. 
Friday, July i, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a. m. Shower. 
Last day of my journey with the party. I took a 
walk after breakfast. I observed children going 
lazily to school with a knapsack containing their 
school-books, over their shoulders, soldier-like, eating 
a crust of bread. The streets are both wide and nar- 
row. The party left the Hotel de Hollande at 9.00 
A. M., by the boat Borussia, to go down the Rhine 
river to Cologne, 120 miles. The scenery along the 
Rhine river is picturesque and unique. O'Lorch, 
where Blucher with his army passed the Rhine, in 
1 8 14, is marked with a monument. Cobleuz, where 
we commenced eating our dinner, was the beginning 



72 All Roads Lead to Rome 

of the fine mountain scenery on either side of the 
Rhine. The mountain sides along the Rhine are cul- 
tivated, and grapes, with other fruit, vegetables and 
agricultural products, are raised, so that the sides of 
the mountains along the Rhine resemble a'crazy quilt. 
Bonn, on the Rhine, is celebrated as the birth-place 
of the musician, Beethooven. The scenery to Coblenz 
is fine. The valley of the Rhine at Coblenz widens 
out, then narrows. There were eight bridges cross- 
ing the Rhine from Mayeuce to Cologne. We 
arrived at Cologne at 5.00 p, m., and were taken to 
the Hotel Fisch in two two-horse omnibuses. I oc- 
cupied room 31 in this hotel. In evening after din- 
ner, I went with Dr. and Mrs. Brennan to see the 
celebrated Cathedral of Cologne. My room was fur- 
nished with the following articles of furniture : cham- 
ber case, sofa, one small cane chair, table, washstaud 
with large mirror over it, narrow, iron bedstead, with 
feather bed, Brussels carpet, two door windows, with 
three large lights in each door, opening inward, old- 
fashioned drop blinds and lace curtains. After din- 
ner I set in the reading room till 10.30 p. m., when 
the guide accompanied me to the depot, and I de- 
parted from them at 11. 17 p. m., on the train for Ham- 
burg, Germany. I was real sorr}'^ to take leave of the 
guide at the depot in Cologne, when he said, "You 
are all right, now for Hamburg," and bid me good- 
bye. I had been traveling with a guide to direct me, 
now I was to have a new experience of traveling 
without a guide in a strange country, without a fa- 
miliarity with the language. In the car I sat in de- 
partment No, II. During the night I went out of my 



All Roads Lead to Rome 73 

department, and returning to it, I met the conductor, 
who disputed the number of my department. When 
he found he was wrong he went into my department, 
No. II, and fixed the seat so I could lie down and 
take a sleep. The train passed through Bremen at 
5.00 A. M., and arrived at Hamburg at 7.00 A. m., on 
Saturday, July 2, 1910 ; 240 miles from Cologne. I 
found my way out of the depot and procured a man 
who spoke English, who carried my grip and directed 
the way to the Hotel Streit, when I went to my 
room 92. I afterwards took breakfast, then I made 
sure I could find the depot again. After I arrived at 
the depot I went to the office of the Hamburg- 
American line and arranged with them my ticket to 
sail the following day, Sunday, July 3, 1910, at 11 00 
A. M. My room, 92, was supplied with the follow- 
ing articles of furniture : hat rack, chamber case, 
washstand, grip rest, narrow, iron bedstead, with 
feather bed for covering, table, cushioned chair, Brus- 
sels carpet, window, two doors, each of which had 
one light of glass opening inward, lace curtains. 
Hamburg is a pretty place. The river Kibe runs 
through Hamburg and river Wesser runs through 
Bremen ; 1,000,000 inhabitants. Arstel Lake is in 
the interior of the city. The curb-stones are fifteen 
inches wide. Stone block and asphalt pavements. 
I went to bed after lunch and slept till 7.00 p. m., 
when I arose to see whether it was still Saturday 
or Sunday. Finding out it was still Saturday, I 
went to bed, instructing the chambermaid to call me 
at 6.00 A. M., Sunday, July 3, 1910. When I arose 
I made my toilet and walked to the depot in the 



74 All Roads Lead to Rome 

rain. I took the train for Cux Haven, 60 miles dis- 
tant, where I arrived and went aboard the S. S. 
Pennsylvania, at 11. 15 a. m. From Hamburg to Cux 
Haven we passed an agricultural country that was 
productive, with wooden fences and hedge fences. 
Cows and horses abound along the route, and the 
buildings generally are covered with clay tile roofs. 
Noticed a thatched roof and fir trees along the route . 
On board the S. S. Pennsylvania there was a band 
of music that was discoursing music when I came 
aboard. I went to stateroom 47, birth 4 lower, seat 
at table 402. I got my lunch and dinner aboard the 
S. S. Pennsylvania, which is 600 feet long, 60 feet 
width and 60 feet depth. She drew about 30 feet 
of water. The S. S. Pennsylvania steamed out to the 
Atlantic Ocean through the North Sea and the 
English Channel. Sea gulls fly after the S. S. Penn- 
sylvania to-day. I went to bed at 9,00 p. m. 

Monday, July 4, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a. m. Walked 
the deck. Breakfasted at 8.00 A. m. Showers this 
morning. The band played patriotic music at various 
times. The steerage had a good time dancing and 
attracted the attention of the second-class passen- 
gers. We had a Fourth of July dinner to-day, at 
which speeches were made. The band played " Star 
Spangled Banner," and other familiar American pa- 
triotic songs. At dinner the waiters, with false faces 
and other disfigurements, and lighted candles in lan- 
terns, marched through the darkened dining room, 
while the band discoursed patriotic music. Some 
speeches were made in German. I had two flags, 
one an American, one a German, and a paper of fire 



All Roads Lead to Rome 75 

crackers. The whole affair was very humorous and 
amusing. The band played and there was dancing 
till late in night. The sea gulls are flying with the 
S. S. Pennsylvania. 

From noon yesterday till noon to-day the S. S. 
Pennsylvania steamed 308 knots. The steerage pas- 
sengers enjoyed themselves dancing. We passed 
through the English Channel to-day. I saw a high, 
rocky embankment on the English coast. Cold to- 
day. The S. S. Pennsylvania steamed in off the 
southern coast of England. We saw Land's End 
lyight-house. The steerage passengers danced in the 
afternoon. Cold. 

Tuesday, July 5, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a. m. Rain. 
Cold. The sea gulls are flying after the S. S. Penn- 
sylvania. There are 250 second-class passengers and 
500 steerage passengers aboard the S. S. Pennsyl- 
vania. Since noon yesterday till noon to-day S. S. 
Pennsylvania steamed 324 knots. There have been 
fog whistles sounding, 10.30 A. M. till 5.00 p. m. 
It stopped raining at 10.30 A. m. It is cold and 
windy. There was a concert held in the dining-room 
this evening. I went to bed at 9.00 p. m. 

Wednesday, July 6, 1910. — Up at 7.00 A. m. Cloudy. 
The passengers are mostly German and speak Ger- 
man. I am the only American aboard. I have 
made no friends aboard. The German people are 
cold and unsympathetic even among themselves, and 
rough in their manners. From noon yesterday till 
noon to-day the S. S. Pennsylvania steamed 310 knots. 
I heard while eating dinner that Johnson had defeated 
Jeffries on July 4, 1910. Porpoises are jumping out 



76 All Roads Lead to Rome 

of the water. The usual music and dancing is going 
on on the steerage deck in afternoon. The babies 
only cry in English. Cloudy and sunshine. I went 
to bed at 9.00 p. m. 

Thursday, July 7, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Rain 
and foggy. The fog whistles are blowing in early 
morning. Since noon yesterday till noon to-day the 
S. S. Pennsylvania steamed 313 knots. About 9.00 
A. M. cleared up and we had middling sailing weather 
during the rest of the day. We had the usual amount 
of music by the band. No sea gulls follow us to-day. 
Fog whistles from 8.00 to 10.00 p. m. Hazy all day. 
Went to bed at 9.30 p. m. 

Friday, July 8, 1910. — Up at 6.00 A. m. Windy, 
cloudy and rough. From yesterday at noon till noon 
to-day the S. S. Pennsylvania steamed 307 knots. 
Partly clear and windy. Some rain in the evening. 
The Germans complain that their visit to their old 
homes did not come up to their expectations and that 
they were disappointed. 

Saturday, July 9, 1910. — Up at 6.00 a. m. Cloudy. 
The S. S. Pennsylvania since noon yesterday till noon 
to-day steamed 295 knots. There are many white 
caps on the water to-day. The wind has been in our 
head all day. Rain this morning. About 9.00 A. m., 
partly cleared ; windy. At noon to-day we are in 
mid-ocean. In evening cloudy. We had the usual 
music by the band. 

Sunday, July 10, 1910. — Up at 6,00 A. m. Cloudy. 
Since noon yesterday till noon to-day the S. S. Penn- 
sylvania steamed 279 knots. Rain this morning at 
8 o'clock, when we breakfasted. Remained cloudy 



Ail Roads Lead to Rome 77 

and windy all day. Wind in our head. There were 
numerous white caps. Commenced to rain at 2.00 
p. M., and rained till 4.00 p. m., then cloudy and 
windy. The third-class passengers were dancing on 
the steerage deck to keep warm, and at dinner time 
they danced. There was the usual amount of music 
by the band. I went to bed at 9.00 A. m. 

Monday, July 11, 1910. — Up at 6.00 p. m. Cloudy, 
I walked the deck till 8.00 A. m., when we break- 
fasted. Since noon yesterday till noon to-day the 
S. S. Pennsylvania steamed 291 knots. The fog 
whistles were sounding from 8.00 till 9.00 a. m., then 
it brightened up and was warmer and less windy. 
No white caps. Fog whistles were sounding from 
5.00 till 6.00 p. M. The third-class passengers were 
dancing on the steerage deck. Band played in the 
morning. In the evening music by the band and 
dancing. Went to bed at 9.00 p. m. 

Tuesday, July 12, 1910. — Up at 5.00 A. m. Fog 
whistles sounded from 2.00 till 4.00 A. m. The S.S. 
Pennsylvania steamed from noon yesterday till noon 
to-day, 326 knots. Rain this morning. Shower of 
rain at 11.00 A. m. Music by the baud. Breakfast at 
8.00 A. M. Lunch at 12.00 M., and dinner at 6.00 
p. M. After lunch no white caps, sunshine. Usual 
music by the band. Dancing on the deck this after- 
noon by the steerage passengers. In the evening 
dancing by the second-class passengers on the deck. 
I went to bed at 9.00 p. m. 

Wednesday, July 13, 1910. — Up at 5.30 a. m. Sun- 
shine. I walked the deck till 8.00 A. m., when I 
breakfasted. The S. S. Pennsylvania steamed since 



78 All Roads Lead to Rome 

noon yesterday till noon to-day, 323 knots. No white 
caps. The day is balmy. Warm and no wind. At 
noon we passed a steamer going the same way, on our 
port. Fog whistles sounding between 3.00 and 4.00 
p. M. The captain gave us a farewell extra dinner. 
The dining-room was decorated with American and 
German flags. The help dressed with false faces and 
carried torches and lanterns, and marched and coun- 
termarched in the darkened dining-room, to our 
great amusement. Speeches were made in German. 
The whole affair was enjoyed by all in the dining- 
room. The captain was very much respected by all 
the passengers on board. I went to bed at 9.00 p. m. 
Thursday, July 14, 1910. — Up at 5.00 a. m. Fog 
whistles were sounding from midnight till 4.00 A. m. 
In the forenoon we saw in the distance, east, smoke 
that appeared to be smoke from a steamer that seemed 
to be gaining on us. The steamer turned out to be 
the fast steamer Lusitania going the same wa5\ She 
passed us two miles to the south, about 5.00 p. m. At 
12.00 M. we passed the U. S. Light ship. It was a 
very affecting scene. The band of S. S. Pennsylva- 
nia played the "Star Spangled Banner," as our ship 
approached the United States L,ight-ship. The S. S. 
Pennsylvania since noon yesterday till noon to-day, 
steamed 304 knots and leaves a distance to New York 
of 189 knots. Hazy, no white caps. The weather is 
very warm, the first warm weather we have had since 
we left Hamburg, Germany. An amusing game 
among the steerage passengers plaj^ed on the steer- 
age deck : One person was blindfolded and stooped, 
while another would smack his posterior. When the 



All Roads Lead to Rome 79 

blindfold was taken off and he would straighten up 
and look around among the crowd for his assailant. 
If he pointed him out then the assailant took his 
place. If the wrong man was pointed out, then the 
blindfolded man would have to be blindfolded again till 
he would point out the right man, then the right man 
would take his place. The second-class and steerage 
passengers were dancing on their respective decks. 
Sunset red. 

A woman about sixty years old, amused herself 
during the whole voyage from Hamburg, Germany, 
by playing cards in the ladies' cabin. I had been 
watching her all the way over, as I sat in the ladies' 
cabin a good deal of time of the voyage over. I 
thought her a superior woman and a leader of women. 
In the evening she asked me my name. I told her, 
John M. Batten. Then she asked me if I was a doc- 
tor. I answered affirmatively. Then she said she 
had heard her cousin speaking about a Doctor Batten 
in Pittsburgh. I told her I was the man and the family 
physician of her cousin, John Lengenfelser, of Pitts- 
burgh. She then introduced me to her lady friends. 
She said she and her husband were physicians and prac- 
ticed in the state of New York. Her husband was 
now dead, and she had retired from the practice of 
medicine. I had another talk with her Friday morn- 
ing before leaving the ship. 

Friday, July 15, 1910.— Up at 4.00 a. m. The S. S. 
Pennsylvania arrived in New York harbor at 2.00 
A. M., and anchored alongside of the Lusitania, which 
had anchored there the evening before, at 10 o'clock. 
The Lusitania has four smoke stacks, and is one of the 



8o All Roads Lead to Rome 

fastest vessels on the ocean. She steams from Liver- 
pool to New York in less than five days. Passengers 
were busy this morning packing up and saying good- 
bye. We had breakfast early and got into the dock 
about 9.00 A. M. My baggage was inspected and I 
went ashore at Hoboken, from there through the tun- 
nel to Jersey City. Then I took the train via Tren- 
ton, to Philadelphia, where I arrived at 12.00 m., and 
home in Downingtown the next morning. 

Saturday, July 16, 1910. — I had a very enjoyable 
trip to Azores, Gibraltar, Naples, Rome, Florence, 
Venice, Milan, Luzerne, Interlaken, and Neuhausen, 
on the Falls of the Rhine. 

In entering to the pier at Hoboken the S. S. Penn- 
sylvania approached very slowly, the band was dis- 
coursing some patriotic music that exhilerated the 
hearts of those on board, and also those of their 
friends on the pier who came to meet them. Their 
friends on the pier were waving their handkerchiefs 
from the time S. S. Pennsylvania hove in sight on her 
way to the pier till she came alongside of the pier. 
Then it was friend meeting friend, father meeting 
children, mother meeting husband, brother meeting 
brother or sister, and sister meeting sister or brother. 
It was a joyful meeting, and a pathetic scene, a scene 
that is enough to stir the heart of any one whose 
heart is not steeled ; relatives who have never met 
and are meeting for the first time in their lives. Per- 
haps it is a lover meeting his fiance, ready to lead her 
to the nuptial altar. 



All Roads Lead to Rome 8i 

N. Prinzess Irene, 
In the middle of the Ocean, 
May 24, 1910, 
CoRKLivi : — I just had my lunch. The wind has 
been in our bow the last twenty-four hours. We 
have steamed 378 knots the last twenty-four hours. 
I am reasonably well. I was a little sick this morn- 
ing and yesterday afternoon. It is very windy. It 
pretty near blows one off the deck. The sea is very 
rough, and the big ship is rolled on the sea's sur- 
face. I met Dr. Eastman, from Uniontown, Pa. I 
knew him before I came aboard. I just had a talk 
with two gentlemen from Memphis, Tenn. A lady 
from Indianapolis won ten dollars by guessing the 
number of knots the steamer steamed in twenty-four 
hours. It has been cloudy and windy ever since we 
left Hoboken, N. Y. We had a concert aboard last 
night, at which eighty dollars was collected. Nine- 
tenths of the passengers are German and speak Ger- 
man. The meals are excellent. We get to Gibraltar 
to-morrow morning at 3.00 p. m. We take carriage 
there. Good-bye. J. M. B. 



Grand Hotel Victoria, Naples, 

June 6, 1910. 
CoRELLi : — Arrived here Thursday. We left for Rome 
to-day. We were twelve days coming here from Ho- 
boken, N. Y. I have seen Naples, been at Mt. Vesu- 
vius and Pompeii. Naples is a pretty city. I am 
well. A number of Americans are visiting here. The 
climate is warm and pleasant. A thunder storm 



82 All Roads Lead to Rome 

passed over Naples yesterday, and I was caught in 
one this morning while I was taking a walk before 
breakfast. I sought shelter. The dark clouds above, 
and the rain, produced a beautiful scene on the bay, 
a dark green, which lasted for some time. There is lots 
of sight-seeing at Rome. Rome is i6o miles from Na- 
ples. Naples has 250,000 inhabitants. There are 
a great many beggars. They follow you in the 
streets. The Hotel Victoria is a modern one, and it 
is up to date in service and not extravagant in its 
prices. The parlor is on the same floor with the 
dining-room. The parlor is composed of four con- 
necting rooms, with mirrors. There is an elevator 
connects the six stories of the hotel. My room is 
loi on the fourth floor. Leave for Rome at 2.00 
p. M. It is now 11.30 A. M. 

Yours, John M. Batten. 



Rome, Sunday, June g, 1910. 
CoRELLi : — I am in the Kternal City. I have been 
at St. Peter's, the Vatican, the Coliseum, the Panthe- 
non and Catacombs. We drove five miles south of 
Rome on the Appian Way, to the Catacombs. I stood 
in the same place that Christ stood, under a stone, a 
mantel-piece-like in its form, six feet high. I could 
just stand under it, so I am the same size as Christ. 
We went into the Catacombs under ground. Each one of 
the party carried a lighted candle through a narrow 
subterraneous passage, and passed and saw the tomb 
of St. Paul. I crossed over the Tiber river on a 
bridge. There are five bridges over the Tiber in 



All Roads Lead to Rome 83 

Rome. We drove along the Appian Way five miles, 
to the Catacombs, which occupy one hundred and 
sixty acres. The Appian Way is 180 miles long and 
has a stone fence on each side of it. St. Paul walked 
along the Way in coming to Rome, and passed under 
three stone arches that we passed under yesterday. 

Rome is a very bright city, and warm, beautifully 
and substantially built. Rome is supplied with good 
water. It had a wall built around it. The wall is 
going into decay now. 

The Forum was destroyed by war and is older than 
the Christian era. It was frequented by all the great 
men that lived in the time of Julius Caesar. 

The Coliseum is a partly destroyed place. It seated 
87,000 people. St. Peter's is the largest edifice in the 
world, and is of beautiful architecture, and a good 
deal of it was planned by Michael Angelo, a sculptor, 
architect and painter. The Vatican has 1,000 rooms, 
and contains beautiful works of art. The garden is 
outside of the Vatican. The Pope's residence is a 
part of the Vatican. I have been at Naples, Mt. Ve- 
suvius and the destroyed city, Pompeii, in 79 a. d. 
All these places are intensely interesting. I am well. 
The party go from here to Florence. 

John M. Batten. 



Grand Hotel New York. 
Florence, Sunday, June 12, 19 10. 
CoRELi^i : — I am in Florence. We arrived here yes- 
terday at 2.30 p. M., 196 miles from Rome. We left 
Rome at 9.00 a. m. We have been visiting the Art 



84 All Roads Lead to Rome 

Gallery of Petti this morning. The Argo river flows 
through Florence. It is noted for sculpture and paint- 
ing. That is all you can say of Florence. The 
streets are narrow and paved with stone. The houses 
are five and six stories high, built of stone, and are of 
Roman architecture. We see no frame houses nor 
colored people. There are 255,000 inhabitants in the 
town. We might call it a white city. The people 
are Italians and are a well developed people. The 
ladies are pretty and the men are fine looking and 
dress well. I saw a Washington hotel here in my 
walks. There is a lady in our crowd from Crafton, 
Pittsburgh, Pa. Rome is a more interesting place 
than Florence. Rome was burnt by Nero and de- 
stroyed, and is partly rebuilt now. The places of in- 
terest now are, St. Peter's, Coliseum, Appian Way, 
Claudius Aqueduct, and the Catacombs. Rome and 
Naples have each a population of half a millon in- 
habitants. There was an earthquake in the reign of 
Nero. Left there on Monday, and on Tuesday last 
at 3.00 A. M., the people of Naples ran out of their 
houses to streets and parks, scared. There were forty 
killed in the neighborhood of Vesuvius. 

Yours, John M. Battkn. 



Le Grand Hotel, 

Venice, Wednesday, June 15, 1910. 

CorelIyI : — We left Florence yesterday. at 2.00 p. m., 

and over a mountainous country, for 200 miles. We 

crossed under 48 tunnels. We crossed the celebrated 

Po river. After passing through the tunnels, we 



All Roads Lead to Rome 85 

passed the town of Bologne, and a beautiful level 
country similar to our Western prairies. The mountain 
scenery cannot be excelled for beauty. We arrived 
at Venice last night at 10.30. To-day we saw 
St. Mark's Cathedral, St. Mark's Square, in which 
are 2,000 pigeons flying about, whose ancestors were 
imported from Constantinople in the thirteenth cen- 
tury. In the Palace, in the dungeon room in which 
Byron imprisoned himself twenty-four hours, pre- 
paratory to writing the " Childe Harold." I saw the 
place where executions took place, the Bridge of Sighs. 
This afternoon we went around the town in gondolas 
and visited where Shylock lived. In Florence we 
visited the place where they make mosaic work, and 
the place where the girls make lace. To-daj^ we 
visited the Rialta and two cathedrals ; one was called 
the Plague Church. Venice is laid out like any other 
town, with streets and alleys of water, but gondolas 
glide along its streets and alleys of water. The city was 
built in the Adriatic 1,000 years ago, and its citizens 
go around in gondolas. I see no carriages nor auto- 
mobiles. There are 450 bridges and 200,000 in- 
habitants. It is a great city. Farmers bring their 
produce to Venice in gondolas. We leave Friday 
morning. Good-bye. 

John M. Batten. 



Grand Hotel Continental, 
Milan, Saturday, June 18, 1910. 
CoREI,!*! : — We came from Venice to Milan, 140 
miles, and arrived at i.oo p. m., and had our lunch. 



86 All Roads Lead to Rome 

We traveled about the city in the afternoon, and 
visited the Cathedral of Milan, St. Ambrosia Church, 
Napoleon Ill's Triumphal Arch. We went in six 
carriages. There is a boulevard of twenty miles 
around the city, which has 625,000 inhabitants. The 
city is well laid out ; the streets are paved with stone 
block, cobble stones and asphalt. The curb-stones are 
two feet wide. The streets are wide and clean. Mi- 
lan is noted for its commerce. The people are clean 
and well to do. Italian is spoken here. I arose at 
5.00 A. M., and took a walk around the city. I saw 
in the public square a monument to L,eonardo. The 
clerks of the hotel all speak Italian. I asked what 
time will breakfast be ready, and they walked away 
from me. Two of our company left us at Venice, 
Mr, and Mrs. Watson. We leave here to-day after 
dinner. There is nobod}^ up yet, and it is nearly 7.00 
A. M. There are large double doors at the entrance to 
the hotel, twenty feet high, and six inches thick. I 
could hardly swing them. There was no rain yester- 
day except early in the morning, when we had a 
shower. We have Dr. Eastman, of Uniontown, Pa., 
Dr. Breneman, Iowa, Dr. O' Brian, Maine, Mr. Collins, 
Indiana, Mr. Dent, California, Mr. Hallack and Mr. 
Harper, Memphis, Tenn., Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin, 
St. lyouis. Mo., and Mr. and Mrs. Watson, New York, 
who left us at Venice. Good-bye. 

John M. Batten, 



All Roads Lead to Rome 87 

Grand Hotel, Lac Lucerne, 

Sunday, June 19, 1910. 
Core;i,li ; — We arrived here yesterday at 6.30 p. m., 
from Milan, Italy, after passing through 67 tunnels, 
including the long tunnel you have read about. It 
took sixteen minutes to run through it. We run 
between the Alps in the valley, with villages clus- 
tered at the foot of snow-capped Alps and streams of 
water running down their sides. A river runs along 
the valley. We pass several lakes, including Lake 
Lucerne, before we come to Lucerne. It is 156 miles 
from Milan to Lucerne. The scenery was pretty all 
the way along. I slept well last night. To-day, 
Sunday, we go to Rigi Kulm, a high mountain. We 
traveled one hour in a boat on Lake Lucerne, and one 
hour in ascending the inclined plane to Rigi Kulm. 
We tramped around the Rigi Kulm. We took lunch 
on Rigi Kulm and then returned to the hotel by the 
same route. Good-bye. John M. Batten. 



Leiler's Grand Hotel Metropole, 

Interlaken, Tuesday, June 21, 1910. 
CoREivLi : — I arrived here to-day, Tuesday, June 21, 
1910. It is beautiful to-day, as clear as crystal. The 
sun made pretty pictures on surrounding scenery. 
Our travels to-day were over and around picturesque 
mountains, with cultivated valleys beneath us. The 
valleys were pretty and large, and cultivation of the 
valleys extended to almost the tops of the mountains. 
The villages that clustered at the feet of the moun- 
tains were pretty. I could not look in any direction 



88 All Roads Lead to Rome 

but what a beautiful scene was presented. Our train 
had an engine suitable for climbing steep mountains. 
We passed over 60 miles with such an engine to-day. 
A part of these 60 miles was traveled on a boat, with 
mountain scenery around us. Lucerne has a figure of 
a lion cut in solid rock, and we visited it yesterday. 
There are all sorts of amusing things there. Many 
of them are the works of nature and some of them 
the works of art. For instance, there the giddy maze, 
composed of mirrors, and when a dozen people enter 
it the reflection of the mirrors make a number appear 
much larger than original number. There are geologi- 
cal wonders that nature has wrought out in the his- 
tory of the world, that are intensely interesting. I 
have been traveling all day, and it is dinner time at 
7.00 p. M., and must go to dinner. Good-bye. 

John M. Batten. 



Bains et Grand Hotel Schweizerhof, 

Neuhausen, Thursday, June 23, 1910. 
CoRELLi : — Arrived this afternoon at 3 o'clock. Left 
Interlaken at 8 00 this morning. Yesterday went to 
the very top of Jungfrau, 10,000 feet above the level 
of the ocean. The view from there was picturesque. 
To go to such a dizzy height, cars creeping in and 
around mountains, makes one's head swim. We 
went through a tunnel at the top of the mountain that 
was three and one-half miles long. To-day we passed 
Baden and Zurich. There are a great number of Ger- 
mans in Pittsburgh from the neighborhood of Baden. 
Zurich is a nice large town. I left the car there for 



All Roads Lead to Rome 89 

an hour and walked through the town. It is 130 
miles from Interlaken to this place, or Neuhausen. 
The Alps, as one gets farther north, diminish in 
height very much, so that they become mere hills. 
We traveled along the Aar river till we came to Zu- 
rich. We took our lunch to-day on the cars. It is a 
beautiful country through which we traveled. Swiss 
farmers are good farmers ; the women as well as the 
men work. I saw a woman mowing with a scythe 
yesterday. Good-bye. John M. Battkn. 



Hotel Bellevue, 
Munchen, Friday, June 24, 1910. 
CoRKiyi^i : — We arrived here from Neuhausen this 
evening at 6.00 p. m. We ran along the Rhine till 
we took a boat on Lake Constance. We crossed the 
lake from Switzerland to Germany, on a boat, where 
we took lunch. The distance from Neuhausen to 
Munich is 200 miles. After we got off the boat at 
Lidau, it is 138 miles to Munich; on the way passed 
villages and towns. The country through which we 
passed was an agricultural country, and the people 
were busy with their work of getting in their har- 
vesting. Munich is an old town, one thousand or 
more years old, and has 580,000 inhabitants. The 
houses are five and six stories high. The streets 
are paved with block stones and asphalt, and so are 
the pavements. I am tired and am going to bed 
pretty soon, so I will say good night, A kiss and 



go All Roads Lead to Rome 

pleasant dreams. Don't forget to clean your teeth 
after each meal and before going to bed. 

John M. Batten. 



Hotel Bellevue, 
Munchen, Monday, June 27, 1910. 

CoRELi^i : — I went on Saturday over to Oberam- 
mergau, and to the Passion Play yesterday. I sat 
eight hours listening to the Passion Play. The 
actors and actresses are all home talent. Oberam- 
mergau is a town of 1,700 inhabitants. There are 
700 performers, and what is remarkable, is that all 
these performers came from the inhabitants of Ober- 
ammergau. Ober means over, a'>nmer is the name 
of the river that flows through the place, and gau 
means district. 

The party all stopped at the little house at which 
lived the lyudwigs, a German family, and took our 
meals there. They are German people and speak 
German. One of the girls helped me put on a new 
collar yesterday morning. It rained all day yester- 
day, though there were 4,000 people at the Passion 
Play. I got my feet wet, and that was where my 
slippers came in good. My shoes and stockings 
were wet. The girl — the same girl that helped me 
on with the collar — took my shoes and cleaned and 
blackened them, and this morning they were out- 
side my door. Oberammergau is 60 miles from Mu- 
nich. We have returned to Munich on the Iser. 
We will leave Munich on Wednesday and go to 
Heidelburg. John M. Batten. 



All Roads Lead to Rome 91 

Grand Hotel Heidelburg, 

Wednesday, June 29, 19 10. 
CoREivLi : — We arrived here at 6.30 p. m., after 
traveling 220 miles from Munich. Heidelberg is 
an educational town of 3,000 inhabitants, with fine 
buildings, wide streets, and fine looking people. So 
far as I have been able to observe, I have seen no 
business houses here. This is before breakfast. We 
traveled through a very pretty section of farming 
country. Farmers taking in their hay. Men and 
women work in the harvest field. The weather is 
wet. Farmers seem to live in villages or towns. I 
don't see as many farm houses here as we have at 
home. I do see one occasionally, but it is a big 
house, much larger than our houses. The houses 
in villages or towns are large, and I suspect more 
than one family lives in it. Sometimes I see farm- 
ers have stock. The most of them are in towns or 
villages. Sometimes the barns and houses are com- 
bined in one building. Such a building is usually 
in the country. We came through Stuttgart, the 
capital of Wurtenberg, Germany. We start for May- 
ence to-day, from thence to Cologne to-morrow, from 
thence to Hamburg, and sail thence in the S. S. 
Pennsylvania to New York, on Sunday, July 3, 
1910. One of our party got into trouble in Munich, 
by setting the room on fire with a wood alcohol 
lamp. The lace curtains and carpets were burned, 
and room damaged. The fire department was called 
out. Good-bye. John M. Batten. 



92 All Roads Lead to Rome 

Hotel de HoUande, 
Mayence, Thursday, June 30, 1910. 
CoRKivLi : — I arrived at the above named place to- 
day at 4.00 p. M. We went around Heidelberg in 
six two-horse carriages in a dreadful thunder storm 
and downpour of rain. Rode over a mountain over- 
looking Heidelberg. Passed a club-house, where the 
students of the University of Heidelberg fight duels. 
Saw the Holy Ghost Church. The Roman Catho- 
lics and Protestants worship in the same church. 
Visited the University of Heidelberg, the Chapel, 
and the Prison, where they put students for misbe- 
havior. One student was in prison while we visited 
it to-day. He said he was put in for six days for 
threshing a policeman. He thought the first two 
days in prison was a novelty, but now it is getting 
to be monotonous. To-morrow he expects to get out 
of prison. There has been a prison in the Univer- 
versity of Heidelberg for two hundred years. Every 
one who has been imprisoned there in that time has 
painted his portrait with his own hands and hung 
it on the walls, so that the walls and ceilings of the 
rooms are full of portraits of students who were af- 
terward distinguished people. There is also at the 
University of Heidelberg a prison used in the seven- 
teenth century. We visited what is known as the 
Old Castle, that is very old, and was nearly destroyed 
by fire in the thirteenth century. It was all destroyed 
but one house, which is standing to-day. We saw 
that house to-day. It is a very pretty place. May- 
ence is situated on the Rhine river, and contains 80,- 
000 inhabitants. We go to Cologne to-morrow, and 



All Roads Lead to Rome 93 

from thence to Hamburg Friday night, and sail Sun- 
day, July 3, 1910. 

John M, Batten. 



Hotel Disch, 
Cologne, Friday, July i, 1910. 

CoREivi,! : — I came from Mayence to Cologne in the 
boat Borussia, 116 miles, down the Rhine. It took us 
eight hours. The river Rhine is very serpentine and 
the scenery is very pretty. There are mountains on 
each side of the Rhine for the greater part of the dis- 
tance. The Rhine is a large river and seven bridges 
span it from Mayence to Cologne — two at Mayence. 
There are good sized towns on the river, and the 
people live from the produce on the sides of the moun- 
tains. We took dinner on the boat, and it was a good 
one. We passed by Coblenz and Bonn, two celebrated 
places. 

I start for home to-night at 11 o'clock, and go to 
Hamburg. I sail on the S. S. Pennsylvania. Dinner 
is ready and I must get ready for it. 

John M. Batten. 



On board the S. S. Pennsylvania, 

Wednesday, July 13, 1910. 
C0RE1.1.1 : — Two days from New York, N. Y., and 
ten days from Hamburg, Germany, or 3,000 miles 
from Hamburg and 600 miles from New York. 

This is a warm, sunshiny morning, the first sun- 
shiny, warm day I have seen except yesterday, which 



94 All Roads Lead to Rovie 

was clear, after a foggy morning. Twelve days is a 
long time to be on board a boat, and seems longer, 
when you are with a German crowd that speak Ger- 
man altogether. I wrote to you from Cologne, Ger- 
many, last. I got your letter before leaving Cologne, 
Friday night at ii o'clock, for Hamburg, Germany. 
I traveled all night and arrived at Hamburg, Ger- 
many, the next morning, Saturday, July 2, 1910, at 
7.00 A. M. In Hamburg I arranged with the Ham- 
burg-American line for my passage to New York. I 
sailed on the S. S. Pennsylvania, Sunday, July 3, 
1910, at noon. I went to the hotel, and not having 
much sleep Friday, or last night, I went to bed in the 
afternoon of Saturday, and when I awakened in the 
twilight of the evening, I thought it was Sunday 
morning, July 3, 1910. I made inquiry and found it 
was Saturday evening, and I went to bed and slept 
till 6 o'clock, Sunday morning, July 3, 1910, when I 
went to the S. S. Pennsylvania, and sailed at noon. 

Thursday, July 14, 1910. — Up at '5.00 a. m. Fog 
whistles sounding since midnight. We had a fare- 
well dinner last evening. The dining-room was 
decorated with American flags and German flags. We 
had an extra dinner and a royal good time. Electric 
lights in the dining-room were turned out, and there 
was marching and countermarching by the employees 
of the dining-room, with torch lights and with all 
sorts of false faces. There was speaking , in the 
German language. We get to New York to-morrow, 
Friday, July 15, 1910, twelve days from Hamburg, 
3,600 knots. It is a long time to be aboard a ship. 
Yesterday was the most pleasant day we had since we 



All Roads Lead to Rome 95 

left Hamburg. Between 3.00 and 4.00 p. m., and from 
midnight till 4.00 A. m., fog whistles were sounding. 
This is a pleasant morning. In the afternoon it is 
beautiful and warm. The S. S. Pennsylvania will be 
in New York to-morrow at 4.00 A. m. We just had 
our coffee. It is very hot on the boat. It is the first 
hot weather I have experienced this year. Good-bye. 

John M. Battkn. 

Home at i.oo p. m., Friday, July 15, 1910. 



Monday, April 19, 191 1. — I have lived to the 74th 
birthday. I am glad to be alive. Many of my con- 
temporaries are dead. I miss them. My father and 
mother and sisters and brothers, are all dead. I feel 
lonely without them. Since last birthday I have been 
in Naples, Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Heidel- 
berg, Cologne, Mayence and Hamburg. 



[ F"rom Pennsylvania Medical Journal, June, 1898. ] 

ALCOHOL. 



By John M. Batten, M. D., of Pittsburg. 



Alcohol in some form has possibly been used as 
early as times immemorial, and there has not been a 
nation on the face of the earth that did not use a 
stimulant or a narcotic. The stimulant has usually 
been alcohol in some form. Tobacco, opium, or hemp 
in a few instances, have been used in its stead. Alco- 
coholic beverages, however, when opportunity pre- 
sented, were easily introduced. An example of this 
fact is given in the account of Henry Hudson's fa- 
mous voyage in 1609, when he discovered the Hudson 
River. The Indian chief and warriors waited for 
him on the shore of Manhattan Island, prepared to 
sacrifice the great Manito in Red. Hudson landed 
with a few of his crew and poured out some rum into a 
tumbler and drank to their healths, then passed a cup- 
ful to the Indians, but they refused to drink, thinking 
it was deadly poison . One, bolder than the rest, how- 
ever, was induced to drink, and he drank, then reeled, 
staggered, and finally fell. He soon recovered from 
its intoxicating efiects and described the efiects of the 

( 96 ) 



Alcohol. 97 

rum in such glowing terms that the rest of the In- 
dians begged to have their share. 

There seems to be a natural craving of man for 
something " that will drive away dull care," and al- 
coholic beverages seem to satisfy that craving. This 
is not only so among the savages, but it is actually 
true among the civilized nations, and they have a 
greater or less disregard of the evil of over-indulgence 
in the use of alcoholic beverages. 

We find the earliest historic records of alcoholic 
beverages are passed down to us from the sacred clas- 
sics of China, India, Judea and Persia, all giving full 
details of their use and abuse. The Chinese used 
wine made from rice, something like saki, which at 
present is used by the Japanese. 

The sacred books of the Brahmans speak of a beer 
known as sura, made from rice, barley and honey, and 
other ingredients. This was a cheap wine, and was 
in disrepute by the priesthood. Soma, a sacred wine 
made from certain plants after fermentation, was of- 
fered as libations to their favorite gods, Indra Vishnu, 
and others. This wine was drunk freely by the 
deities, and they were highly gratified at the resultant 
intoxication. In their worship they did not pour all 
the wine on the altar, but in their devotion they drank 
a part of it, and the exhilarating effect of it was 
credited to divine favor. 

The Bible in places speaks of wine as, "Wine 
maketh glad the heart of man," "Thou hast put 
gladness into their hearts since the time that their 
corn and wine and oil increased," and so on. It is 
claimed by well-intentioned moralists that the good ef- 



98 Alcohol. 

feet of wine, as spoken of in the Bible, was from un- 
fermented wine : and they have some reason for 
making such an assertion, as in the Hebrew Bible ap- 
pear two ^otAs,yayin and Hrosh, and each is translated 
wine. The dse of tirosh is approved, while that of 
y ay in is condemned. There is another Hebrew word, de- 
bish, which, translated, means honey. It is claimed 
that in making this honey that the fresh grape juice 
was boiled down to thick syrup before it was fer- 
mented. In Syria at present such a honey, called 
debs, is used for sweetening purposes. 

The Greek word, oinos, meaning wine, that is used 
in both the Old and the New Testament, there is no 
reason to doubt but that it refers to the fermented 
wine, and the use of it was approved, while its abuse 
was condemned. 

The ancient Egyptians, at a very early date, discov- 
ered the art of making barley wine, or true beer, and 
also grape wine. They drank these beverages in the 
presence of their families. We read of them drinking 
like beasts and being carried home from suppers on 
the backs of slaves. The women also became intoxi- 
cated. 

The writings of the ancient Persians, the Zend 
Avesta, dating back 4,000 to 6,000 years b. c, con- 
tain many reference to Iionta and mira : the former, a 
sacred drink, and the latter a popular one. Wine was a 
later discovery. 

The Greeks knew best how to drink alcoholic bev- 
erages without getting drunk. They drank them very 
much diluted. It is, however, not to be inferred that 



Alcohol. gg 

they did not get drunk, but it was very uncommon 
among the people in Greece's Golden Age. 

In the early age of Rome, the Roman people were 
an exceedingly temperate race, but as they grew in 
wealth and power the drinking habit increased with 
them till Rome fell. 

We gather by the history of both Greece and Rome 
that as long as they practiced temperance in alcoholic 
beverages, that these nations increased in power and 
wealth, but as soon as they became intemperate, their 
power and wealth were dissipated. As with nations, 
so with individuals ; in order to be healthful, pro- 
gressive and successful, they must be temperate. 

It is a remarkable fact, however, that alcohol itself 
was not discovered till after the downfall of the Roman 
Kmpire, and after the discovery it was not used for 
intoxicating purposes for many hundred years. Pliny, 
Natural History, written about 50 a. d., speaks of ex- 
tracting oil of turpentine by boiling, from crude pitch 
and gathering the vapors on fleeces from which the 
condensed oil could be pressed. This likely marked 
the first beginning of the art of distilling, which 
slowly progressed for two hundred years later. 

The art of distillation would have developed further, 
but the Kmperor Diocletian, about a. d. 287, ordered 
the books of a flourishing school of alchemists to be 
destroyed at Alexandria, and prohibited further 
studies in that line, fearing that the discovery of the 
philosopher's stone might be a menace to the Roman 
rule. The year a. d. 984, the famous Alexandrian I,i- 
brary was destroyed by the Mohammedan General 
Amru, at the orders of Caliph Abu Bekr. These oc- 



loo Alcohol. 

currences no doubt helped to stop the progress of civ- 
ilization some hundreds of years, and gave literature, 
science, and medicine, a blow from which they have 
not yet recovered. It is interesting to speculate what 
would have been the condition at present, if the dis- 
covery of galvanic electricity and the germ theory of 
disease had been discovered a hundred years earlier. 

The fact of the matter is, that owing to the events 
just mentioned having occurred, the study of science 
had to be commenced over again by the Arabians, un- 
der a more enlightened rule. We read of the famous 
Geber mentioning the term distillation about the close 
of the eighth century, but it is likely he knew little 
more about it than separating, by heat, two metals at 
different melting points. Albucasis speaks of the 
process of distillation in the eleventh century in less 
doubtful terms. It remained for two European alche- 
mists, Raymond Tully and Armand de Villeneuve, in 
the thirteenth century, to clearly describe the method 
of distillation and the preparation, properties, and the 
uses of alcohol. 

In view of the great amount of deserved abuse that 
has been heaped upon liquors, it is interesting to note 
that after the discovery of alcohol, for some hundreds 
of years it was considered the most valuable product 
of chemistry. The old alchemists went wild over it. 
They admired the clear, smokeless and colorless flame 
with which it burned ; they wondered at its power to 
dissolve resins, balsams and oils ; they used it as a 
preservative ; they used it in the preparation of chemi- 
cals ; and, above all, they used it as a medicine. 

Aqua vitse, alcohol, or water of life, as it was called, 



Alcohol. loi 

played a very important part as a remedy in the treat- 
ment of disease. It was one of the most important 
medicines in the pharmacopoeia of the day. It was 
used as a basis of all cordials and elixirs that was 
prescribed to the sick and feeble. These cordials and 
elixirs were considered a sort of cure-all. Each physi- 
cian, each alchemist, prepared cordials and elixirs ac- 
cording to his own fancy, and claimed miraculous 
cures for his own particular nostrums. The basis of 
them all was alcohol. The monks, too, gave them 
out to the sick and feeble at their convent doors. 

It seems singular that acqua vitae was only used as a 
medicine, and used as a medicine exclusively. Its in- 
toxicating effects were little, if at all known. No- 
where in the writings of Shakespeare is alcohol men- 
tioned, except in Romeo and Juliet, where the old 
nurse sighs, " Oh, for some strong waters from 
Venice." 



[ From The Medical Fortnightly, November, 1898. ] 

SYPHILIS. 



By John M. Batten, M. D. , Pittsburg, Pa. 

Read before the Mississippi Valley Medical Association, Nashville, 
Tenn., October 13, 1898. 



Let lis remember the old maxim, " That art is long, 
experience deceptive, and judgment diflScult." 

Some questions which are not clear to my mind in 
the light of my present knowledge : 

(i) Is syphilis a curable disease ? Or is it possible 
to eradicate all the syphilitic germs from a syphilitic ? 

(2) Is not a person once a syphilitic always a 
syphilitic ? 

(3) Is the germ of tertiary syphilis, the same at that 
of secondary syphilis, and also the same germ that 
causes the chancre ? Or is its virulence modified by 
removal from the chancre ? 

(4) Is it possible to inoculate a non-syphilitic by 
the serum, or secretions from a tertiary syphilitic and 
produce a syphilitic chancre? Should syphilitics 
marry ? and when ? 

In the light of my present knowledge I believe 
syphilis is not entirely a curable disease. Whilst it may 
( 102 ) 



Syphilis. 103 

be modified by specific and timely treatment, yet I be- 
lieve it impossible to eradicate completely all the 
germs of a syphilitic, so that I think a person once a 
syphilitic is always a syphilitic. A syphilitic may 
seem to all intents and purposes cured of the malady, 
yet it is apt to make its imprint manifest on some of 
his or her children. 

I believe that the germ that produces the chancre 
is the same, and has the same virulence as that which cir- 
culates in the system during the secondary and tertiary 
syphilis, and so long as there is a single syphilitic 
germ in the system, such a person is a syphilitic, and 
may convey the disease to others in various ways. 
For this reason I would say, a syphilitic should never 
marry. It would be better for the State that he never 
marry. It has been my experience that a syphilitic, 
no matter in what stage, or how completely cured he 
seems to be, is liable to inoculate his wife ( or her hus- 
band ) with the disease, or some of his ( or her ) 
children may inherit it. 

From what I have said, I am induced to produce the 
following cases of the many that have come under my 
observation : 

P. Q. contracted syphilis when he was 25 years of 
age. He married at the age of 34 years, a perfectly 
healthy blonde of 21 years of age. When married he 
had not undergone a regular course of treatment, but 
was in every way, so far as appearance indicated, a 
perfectly healthy man, except a leaden appearance that 
he presented. His kidneys and liver often became torpid. 
He is strictly a temperate man, and takes exceedingly 
good care of himself. The wife now has one child by 



I04 Syphilis. 

him, a boy nearly five years of age. The child is ap- 
parently healthy, well nourished, and large of his age. 
Whilst carrying this child, the mother presented the 
characteristic syraptons of secondary syphilis, which 
was either transmitted to her from the father through 
the child, or conveyed by the semen of the father. 
Mrs. P. Q. weighed 125 pounds when she was mar- 
ried, but was afterward by the effects of the disease, 
reduced in weight to 105 pounds. The child has not 
( even at this date, September 7, 1898 ) as yet pre- 
sented any indications of having inherited the disease. 
( A younger child has all the indications of the dis- 
ease by inheritance.) 

B. R., a young man of scrofulous diathesis, in- 
herited from his father, contracted syphilis, after he 
had had a very bad ulcerated leg, when he was 20 
years old. I treated him specifically for two years. He 
then contracted it a second time, and underwent treat- 
ment as before. He married at the age of 25 years, and 
now has two children, who are apparently healthy ( at 
this date, September 7, 1898, the two children are 
dead, but one has been born since, which is now 
living ). The wife so far has apparently escaped the 
disease. 

A. B., a young woman aet. 21 years, contracted 
syphilis and underwent a mercurial course of treat- 
ment for one year, after which she married and had two 
children, a boy and a girl, now respectively 16 and 18 
years of age. They appear to be entirely healthy, 
although in childhood they presented the characteristic 
symptoms of inherited syphilis, and were so treated. 



Syphilis. 105 

The mother has since died of syphilitic disease of the 
liver. 

A. R., a young man aet. 25 years, contracted syphi- 
lis, and was treated with mercury, for a period of two 
years. He then married, and the first child was still- 
born, having died in utero, and became macerated be- 
fore birth. Whilst carrying the second child Mrs, A. 
R. was treated with mercury, and the second child was 
born alive, and is stll living. She has had several 
children born alive since ; all are now living and ap- 
parently well. The mother never contracted the 
disease from the husband. 

J. P., a young man aet. 21 years, contracted syphi- 
lis. He was treated with mercury for a period of two 
years. He married at the age of 25 years. His wife 
bore him three children ; one died soon after birth, of 
imperfect development of the heart, and the second 
died during the second summer, of inherited syphilis, 
but the third is still living and apparently healthy. 
The mother does not show any symptoms of the 
disease. 

A young man contracted syphilis when he was 18 
years old, and was treated with mercury for a period 
of two years. He then married and had one child. 
The child has symptoms of having inherited the 
disease, although the father and mother are appar- 
ently healthy. 

A man married a woman with tertiary syphilis. 
The husband contracted the disease from the secre- 
tions of his wife in the form primarily of urethritis, if 
not a concealed chancre. The husband never had any 



io6 Syphilis. 

buboes, but suffered all the symptoms of the dread 
disease. 

I have said that syphilitics ought not to marry. As 
far as the disease in my opinion is a curable one, I 
would adhere to my stated opinion. If it could be 
cured in such a way that there could be no possible 
chance of transmission, I would say marry, but my 
experience and observation have taught me that 
syphilis is not a curable disease, and is oftener, than 
otherwise, transmitted to posterity, even when it has 
received a scientific and prolonged treatment. If with 
the view of final eradication of the effects of the 
disease from the posterity of the syphilitic by proper 
selection, I would say marry, for I believe that it is, 
only through proper selection, and for a long time that 
the effects of syphilis can be finally eradicated from 
the posterity of a syphilitic. — ^John M. Batten, M. D., 
Pittsburg, Pa., January 12, 1889, American Medical 
Association Journal^ Vol. 12, 139. 

Dr. M. O. Jones, an observing and careful practi- 
tioner of Pittsburg, Pa., relates to me two cases of 
syphilis that came under his observation, in which the 
disease was communicated to their wives. Case i. A 
young man contracted syphilis in 1864. He was 
treated two years by Dr. Jones, then the young man 
married a healthy woman, but she bore him no 
children. The wife soon after marriage was inocu- 
lated with syphilis by her husband. Case 2. A man 
contracted syphilis, for which he was treated two 
years by Dr. Jones. He then married and soon after 
inoculated his wife. 

Dr. Blank relates to me a case, as follows : N., a 



Syphilis. 107 

male, aet. 30 years, in May, 1880, contracted syphilis 
in the usual way, and for which he was treated, or was 
under Dr. Blank's care for ten years. At the end of 
this period he married a perfectly healthy woman. In 
a year after marriage she ( his wife ) became pregnant 
by her husband, and in three months she had a mis- 
carriage. Shortly after the doctor noticed she was 
suffering all the symptoms of syphilis. The husband 
afterward died of syphilitic paresis. 

Dr. Geo. Duffield reports a case of syphilis in the 
Medical News, September 15, 1894, P^^g^ 65, No. 12, 
where a man married nine years after the inception of 
the disease, and communicated it to his wife and a 
child that was born to him. 

Of course many physicians claim that syphilis is a 
curable disease, and will utter an opinion about as 
follows : ' ' But recently I heard a gentleman make the 
statement to a medical society, that he had treated a 
patient for syphilis ten years before the patient's mar- 
riage, and after the marriage the patient infected his 
young wife. To me the statement was absurd. I did not 
deny the contagion, but did the source. The belief 
by some that the contagious character of syphilis per- 
sists for decades is an error, due to faulty observation 
or lack of observation. Without entering any further 
into the polemics, I make the assertion more forcible 
than elegant, that patients may be rotten with sequelar 
lesions of syphilis, and at the same time indulge in 
intercourse and procreate offspring without conveying 
the disease to the one, nor transmitting it to the 
other." — American Medical Association Journal, Vol. 
23, p. 107. 



io8 Syphilis. 

The above is about a fair example of the teaching 
of those who claim that syphilis is a curable disease. 
Those who believe thus, advocate two years' treatment 
of syphilis after the infection, then marry and procreate 
children, and all will be well. How dangerous and 
doubly absurd a doctrine. Why does fissure in ano 
occurring twenty years after the infection of the 
disease, and ninety per centum of all skin diseases re- 
spond so promptly to mercury or iodide of potash ? 
Why do so many scrofulous and weakly children 
spring from syphilis ? 

The way of the syphilitic microbe ( though it has 
been claimed that the syphilitic microbe has recently 
been discovered by Van Niesen ) hitherto has been 
past finding out. Its effects depend much upon the 
soil in which it operates, the number of microbes op- 
erating and the power of the leucocytes to prevent 
their ruthless ravages. I believe a blonde suffers with 
syphilis more than a brunette. I have never seen a 
syphilitic microbe, and it is doubtful whether many 
have seen one. We know little of its history, how it 
acts, or how long it remains in the system. We do 
know its deleterious effects on humanity when it 
once gains admission into the blood. The microbe of 
many other germ diseases, such as measles, scarlet 
fever, etc., does its work quickly, either to the death 
of the patient, or surrender to the generalship of the 
mighty host of leucocytes. After convalescence, as a 
general rule, in all these cases there seems to be no 
trace of the microbe remaining. It is not so with the 
syphilitic microbe. Its effects on a syphilitic case 



Syphilis. 109 

may be seen many years after its first inception, and 
for many generations in his posterity. 

It must be admitted that the type of syphilis of the 
present is of a milder form than formerly. If so, it is 
because the people have been either directly or he- 
reditarily well syphilized. Still there are yet differ- 
ent types of the malady, or acting differently on dif- 
ferent constitutions. I have seen and treated cases 
where as yet the effects of the disease have been con- 
trolled, or they lie dormant, for there have been no 
traces of the disease, either in the parents or in their 
children. Yet in other families I have observed traces 
of it still existing, both in the parents and in their 
children. I have never treated a case of syphilis in 
which the vitality of the person so affected was not 
lowered, and it is doubtful whether there has been a 
case in which the person so affected did not have to 
take a retrogressive step to a lower plane of develop- 
ment intellectually, morally and physically. It is 
probable that such a person would never rise to the 
plane he occupied before being inoculated with the 
disease. Just what time the syphilitic microbe departs 
from the body, or the form it assumes in injuring the 
constitution many years after the inception of the 
disease has not been indicated. Is not the disease after 
it affects the body liable at any moment during the 
life-time of the patient, to break out like a volcano ? 
What condition of the blood causes diseases of the 
mucous membranes and of the nervous system many 
years after the inception of the disease? These are 
pertinent questions that must be answered before such 
sweeping assertions truthfully can be made, ' ' that 



no Syphilis. 

patients can be rotten with the sequelar lesions of the 
disease, and yet no harm can come from them, for the 
microbe has departed, and there is no danger of im- 
parting the disease to others. What made the patient 
rotten ? Does not a patient recover when the cause of 
the disease is removed ? This has been my education 
by experience, which is the best teacher. 

Again, will not these conditions of the blood in 
tertiary syphilis, which causes such destructive con- 
stitutional changes to take place, if transfused to a non- 
syphilitic produce the same destructive condition in 
him ? Is not the offspring of the parent or parents a 
very good register of the health of the parent or parents ? 
Could we expect to breed a strong nation from syphi- 
litics ? When the gonococci may linger in the genito- 
urinary tracts for so many years, is it reasonable to 
expect that the syphilitic microbe, which has a more 
extended territory in which to exist, will relinquish its 
possession sooner ? Why is it that syphilitic women 
are constantly syphilizing men and vice versa f 



[ From The Southern Medical Journal, October, igoi. ] 

Acute Intestinal Auto- Infection. 



By John M. Batten, M. D., Downingtown, Pa. 



I was called on February 21, i8g8, to see profes- 
sionally, W. F. B., aged 56 years, weight 220 pounds. 
During his sickness he lost 40 pounds. He had been 
ailing for some time, and meeting him casually on the 
street previous to my being called to see him profes- 
sionally, I had noticed a gray, leaden complexion. 
Indeed, his complexion presented the appearance of 
one suffering from malignant disease of the liver, but 
when I first saw him there was no disturbance of the 
circulation or temperature. Both were normal. His 
tongue was clean. He was complaining of great 
prostration. I ordered him to lie down in bed for a 
day or two, hoping that rest would be beneficial to 
him. I did not, during this period, prescribe any 
drugs, but about two days afterward, on his own ac- 
count, he took a dose of calomel, which made him 
deathly sick, and the consequent evacuations of the 
bowels still further prostrated him, so that he had to be 
assisted to bed from the chamber. From this time his 
tongue coated, white thick fur and red around the edges. 
( III ) 



112 Acjite Intestinal Auto-Infedion, 

His pulse became increased and his temperature 
higher. His bowels constipated. There were eruc- 
tations of malodorus gas from his stomach. There 
was gurgling in the right iliac region, which condi- 
tion continued for a period of ten days. His urine 
then became loaded with urates, together with the 
constituents of the bile, and this condition continued 
throughout the remainder of the ailment, or until 
convalescence was established. Also about this pe- 
riod, or about the eleventh day of the disease, his 
stomach became irritable, and he often vomited, and 
he suffered exceedingly with gas on the stomach. 
After this time we were able to make a differential di- 
agonis of acute intestinal auto-infection from malig- 
nant disease of the liver, as there was a thickening or 
congestion of the lower end of the stomach and upper 
end of the duodenum. 

The infection was treated with antiseptics, and af- 
terwards the congestion of the lower end of the stom- 
ach and upper end of the duodenum were treated with 
nitrate of silver. After cessation of these symptoms 
he had extreme pain in the right knee, which was 
succeeded by great tenderness along the right thigh, 
in the region of the femoral vein. This condition 
may have been caused by being bathed in alcohol 
each morning by the nurse, which she did on her 
own account. When I saw the patient at this state of 
the disease I could not account for the subnormal 
temperature each morning which I for a time had no- 
ticed. I finally discovered that the nurse had been 
bathing the patient with alcohol, and when the 
bathing was stopped the temperature resumed the 



Acute Intestinal Auto- Infection. 113 

normal in the mornings. In this we may be taught a 
lesson — that is, never bathe a convalescent with alco- 
hol when the bathing causes a subnormal temperature. 
In convalescing the patient's legs swelled. He was in 
bed about five months. At this time he commenced 
to sit up in his room. Indeed, he went down into the 
dining-room, and dined with his family, but did not 
venture to do so again for some time. The swelling 
in his legs, and the urates in his urine, continued for 
some time, but no albumen was found at any time. 
About at the end of two and a-half months, his ail- 
ment, he concluded ( although swelling of his legs 
had not disappeared, nor the urine cleared up ) to go to 
Mount Clemens, Michigan, where he subjected him- 
self to a course of hot bathing, under the direction of 
the doctor of that institution. The doctor, then on 
his first examination, thought it a case of Bright's 
disease of the kidneys, but in this he was mistaken. 
The patient rapidly gained his strength there, and to- 
day (October 14, 1898) he is enjoying good health. 
The cause of the ailment in this patient was, no 
doubt due to carelessness on his part in securing daily 
evacuations of the bowels. This is another lesson the 
case teaches, and that is, to always secure a daily 
evacuation of the bowels. We should " eat to live," 
and not "live to eat." If more food is taken 
into the stomach than is actually demanded for 
the nourishment of the body, then the surplus must 
be carried out of the system by way of the excretory 
channels, or absorbed into the system to poison the 
blood. Sickness, many times, is caused by our own 
neglect or ignorance, or the neglect or ignorance of 



114 Acute Intesthial Auto -Infection. 

somebody else in obeying the laws which govern 
health. 

In the case of this patient he had neglected the 
proper precaution of attending to having regularity 
in the movements of his bowels for months, hence 
the infection from pent-up feces in the colon, cecum 
and rectum, day by day. The alimentary canal 
includes the mouth, esophagus, duodenum, jejunum, 
ilium, cecum, colon and rectum. These preside over 
mastication, assimilation, nutrition, together with se- 
cretion and excretion of the waste material of the 
body. The intestinal canal is that part of the ali- 
mentary tract extending from the stomach to the an- 
nus. The cecum, colon and rectum, are a reservoir 
and excreting canal. The regional anatomy of the 
intestines, as well as the blood vessels and nerves, 
should be well studied, as they are included in the 
anatomy of the intestinal canal. Besides neglect in 
daily movement of the bowels, heat, cold, toxic in- 
fluences of internal and external origin, the use of 
unwholesome food, sudden changes of temperature, 
typhoid fever, together with diseases of the heart, con- 
sumption, and all diseasesof a lingering nature, in which 
the organs of nutrition and elimination become very 
much debilitated, may be the cause of intestinal 
auto-infection. In disease of any character whatever, 
the effete matter is not eliminated, but allowed to 
accumulate in the system, it consequently becomes 
reabsorbed, and thus we may have auto-infection. 

The symptoms of intestinal auto-infection, subjec- 
tive and objective, come on so insidiously and decep- 
tively that the general observer may overlook the true 



Acute Intestinal Auto- Infection. 115 

condition of the ailment and be thereby mislead. 

The diagnosis of the ailment is difficult, indeed. 
To make a diflferential diagnosis between stomach 
indigestion and intestinal indigestion is not always 
so easily done, as indigestion is always claimed to 
be from causes existing in the stomach and not in 
the intestinal canal. In connection with intestinal 
intoxication we usually find the gray or cachetic ap- 
pearance of the skin with alteration of the grandular 
excretion of the skin. 

It is difficult to localize any pathological condi- 
tions, and they are thereby overlooked very often. 
The medication of the disease should be well con- 
sidered. 

The disease may be slow in developing. At first 
there may be a loss of appetite, and headache in the 
morning. The abdomen may be pendulous. There 
may be languor or general depression of the ner- 
vous system. Kructation of malodorous gas and bad 
taste in the mouth, and besides the morning head- 
ache, there may be a headache throughout the day, 
drowsiness with disturbed sleep and unpleasant dreams. 
There is often palpitation of the heart from pres- 
sure of the abdominal organs against the diaphragm. 
There are boborigmi, which are indicative of fermen- 
tation of the contents of the intestinal canal with 
generation of gas. At times there may be melan- 
cholia, with irritable disposition. The breath may 
be foul. The tongue is coated with white thick fur, 
red around the edges, similar to a typhoid moist 
tongue. Night sweats in the latter part of the disease 
may be frequent and alarming. Women who lace 



ii6 Acute hitestinal Auto- Infection. 

tightly may be affected oftener than men. Those in 
the habit of eating pastry and unwholsome food are 
easy subjects for the disease. Those who inordinately 
drink spirituous liquors as a daily beverage are more 
likely to suffer from the disease than others. The 
daily use of the syringe or cathartics should be decried, 
as this habit in the end may be the cause of intestinal 
auto-infection. A habit should be established of 
having the bowels moved each day at a certain time, 
and after the breakfast meal is a good time for that 
duty. The bowels may be kept soluble by partaking 
of the proper food for that purpose, and hence a regu- 
larity in their movement rather than resorting to laxa- 
tives in the shape of cathartics or the syringe. It is 
plainly evident therefore that the daily habit of using 
cathartics or the syringe to keep the bowels open should 
be condemned. The food should be well and whole- 
somely prepared, and taken into the stomach at set 
periods. Three times a day for the adult is the com- 
mon prescribed custom in this country. The Indian 
maize, much used as a diet in this country when I was 
a boy, is much preferred as a regular diet than oatmeal. 
In the beginning of an acute attack of intestinal 
auto-infection, calomel should be given in a single 
large dose, to be repeated the next day if necessary, or 
until the flow of bile is well established. Then anti- 
septics with or without small doses of mercurj'- may be 
continued for some time, or until there is an ameliora- 
tion in the symptoms. If ptyalism occur the mercury 
should be omittted. When there is an atonic con- 
dition of the bowels or a debilitated heart, strychnine 
acts well. In the latter stage of the disease some of 



Smallpox. 117 

the mineral waters are very agreeable and beneficial. 
In convalesence vegetable tonics may be prescribed. 
If the kidneys are torpid and legs dropsical, hot baths 
in combination with vegetable tonics may be admin- 
istered. 



[ From The Medical Fortnightly, October, 1902. ] 

SMALLPOX. 



By John Mullin Batten, M. D., Downingtown, Pa. 

Read before the Mississippi Valley Medical Association, 
Kansas City, October 15, 1902. 



In the endemic or epidemic of smallpox at Pitts- 
burgh, Pa., in 1871, I had an opportunity of observing 
it in all its phases. In certain families there was im- 
munity from the disease, while in other families there 
was extreme predisposition to take the disease . There 
seems to be an heredity of immunity in some families 
from all diseases, while other families seem to be pre- 
disposed to take all diseases, and smallpox is no ex- 
ception to this rule. In making observation of those 
immune from smallpox I found that they had been 
made immune from the disease either by heredity ; by 
having variola or varioloid, or by vaccination of them- 
selves, or either one or both of their parents. This 



n8 Sfnallpox. 

immunity in some cases was perfect, while in other 
cases it was only partial. The latter was attacked 
with mild smallpox or varioloid. The most cases of 
confluent smallpox I witnessed occurred among those 
who had not themselves been vaccinated nor either of 
their parents. While a perfect vaccination or an attack 
of variola or varioloid is generally a protection against 
all the varieties of smallpox, yet not in all cases, as I 
witnessed in 1871 in the case of Mrs. W., a married 
woman, mother of several children, who suffered with 
a second attack of confluent smallpox. It is my opinion 
that a perfect vaccination in youth is a perfect protec- 
tion to the individual so vaccinated through the re- 
mainder of his life to all the varieties of smallpox. 

Variola is derived from the I^atin varus, a blotch or 
pimple, while pox is of Saxon origin, meaning a bag or 
pouch ; the prefix small was added in the 15th century. 
The first appearance of smallpox occured A. D. 569, 
about the date of the birth of Mohammed ; it seems 
then to have commenced in Arabia and the raising of 
the siege of Mecca by the Abyssinian army is attributed 
to ravages made by smallpox among the troops. 
The new part which Arabia under Mohammed and his 
followers was made to play in history contributed to 
the rapid spread of smallpox, throughout the world. 
Rhazes, an Arabian physician who practiced at Bag- 
dad about the beginning of the loth century, is the 
first medical author of whom we read whose writings 
have come down to us who treats expressely of the 
disease ; it is known, however, that he quotes several 
of his predecessors, one of whom flourished in the year 
Hegira 622. Measles and scarlet fever were first con- 



Smallpox. iig 

founded with smallpox, but Sydenham was the first 
to point out the essential differences between the 
diseases, Boerhaave was the first to proclaim that 
smallpox was propagated by contagion. The stage of 
incubation is the period that elapses from the time the 
contagion is taken into the system till it manifests 
itself in the initiatory fever, and this period is about 
fourteen days, although the time may be longer or 
shorter. During this period the patient usually re- 
mains in his accustomed health. The first symptoms 
of the disease are headache, chills, fever, accompanied 
with pains in the back, particularly in the loins. 
There is also nausea and vomiting. If there be severe 
pain in the back accompanied with high fever we may 
expect a severe form of the disease. Convulsions often 
usher in the disease in children. About the third or 
fourth day, more generally the fourth day of the disease, 
the rash makes its appearance on the face, then on the 
neck and wrists, then on the trunk and finally on the 
extremities. On the fifth day the eruption is usually 
complete. It first consists of minute papules or pimples ; 
these papules are converted into vesicles filled with 
thin lymph about the fourth day of the eruption, having 
a depression in their center, when they are termed 
umbilicated. These vesicles now become surrounded 
with an areola, which become a dark cinnamon color. 
The lymph is finally converted into pus which extends 
their walls until they become hemispherical. A dark 
spot makes its appearance about the eight day of the 
eruption at the center of the pustule and is converted 
into a dry scab. When the scab falls it leaves either 
an indelicate cicatrix or a purplish mark, which fades 



I20 Smallpox. 

very slowly, and when exposed to a cool atmosphere 
for a long time is rendered very distinct. In disap- 
pearing the scabs take the same order as the appearance 
of the eruption, first they fall oflF the face, then they fall 
ofif the neclr. and wrists, then off the trunk, and lastly 
off the extremities. When the pustules are far apart 
and few in number the disease is known as discrete 
smallpox ; but when they are so numerous as to touch 
one another or run together the disease is known as 
confluent smallpox ; between these two grades of small- 
pox is an intermediate grade or variety named semi- 
confluent smallpox ; or coherent is often spoken of In 
the discrete form the fever subsides on the appearance 
of the eruption, and if the pustules are few the fever 
does not re-appear, but in the confluent form the matu- 
ration of the pustules is attended with more or less 
fever. The throat is sore and red with some pustules 
scattered on the fauces, roof of the mouth, and inside 
of the cheeks ; these conditions of the throat and mouth 
occur when the eruption makes its appearance on the 
surface of the body ; the patient is more or less affected 
with salivation at the same time. The cellular tissue 
is involved in confluent small pox, the swelling is 
great and the patient unable to open his eyes. The 
eruption on his face coalesces and makes one huge sore. 
The itching is intense and the fever is of typhoid kind. 
The patient is delirious, sleepless and restless, while 
the pulse are small, feeble and frequent. In these cases 
the inflammation of the mouth, nasal passages, larynx 
and pharynx adds much to the distress of the patient. 
This condition sometimes produces suffocation. The 



Smallpox. 121 

odor of the confluent form of the disease is very un- 
pleasant. 

In an epidemic or endemic of smallpox when the 
disease has become well established the diagnosis is not 
difficult, as all cases of sickness beginning with fever, 
headache and backache accompanied with nausea and 
vomiting is likely to terminate in smallpox. It is only 
in the first cases of an endemic, or epidemic, or isolated 
or sporadic cases that the diagnosis of the disease might 
become difficult. 

To make a correct diagnosis of variola at the first 
inception of the disease in a locality or neighborhood 
or community is very important, as such a diagnosis 
may be the means of checking the disease from spread- 
ing and growing into an endemic or epidemic. Besides 
a correct diagnosis of smallpox by a physician tends to 
establish the confidence of the people in the physician 
who makes a correct diagnosis of the disease and may 
prevent him from the danger of defending himself in a 
suit of malpractice. 

Variola may be distinguished from measles by the 
following differential symptoms. In variola, as we 
have seen, the eruption comes out on the face, then on 
the neck and wrists, then on the trunk, and lastly on 
the extremities. In measles the eruption comes out 
first on the face and trunk, and also there is a catarrh 
of the mucous membrance of the air passages and of 
the eyes. In smallpox the fever abates on the appear- 
ance of the eruption to be resumed to a greater or less 
degree at the maturation of the pustular stage, whereas 
in rubeola, the fever continues throughout the eruptive 
period. The papules even in the confluent forms are 



122 Smallpox. 

remarkably discrete and exhibit not the slightest ten- 
dency to grouping, while the maculo-papules of ru- 
beola are developed simultaneously on the face and 
trunk, while those of variola commonly appear first 
on the face, then on the neck and wrists, then on the 
trunk, and lastly on the extremities, the older and 
larger, therefore, in the site of the earliest appear- 
ance. The eruption of measles is made to disappear 
or pale on pressure beneath the fingers, while there is 
greater persistence of color in the variolous papules. 
In measles in passing the flat of the hand over the 
surface of the body the pimples are less distinct than 
in smallpox. Even with all the differential symtoms 
in mind it may be difficult to make a differential di- 
agnosis in certain stages of the disease between small- 
pox and measles, but by waiting twenty-four hours 
the difficulty may be cleared up. 

With scarlet fever we could scarcely make a mistake 
in the diagnosis of variola. The rash of scarlet fever 
is entirely different and makes its appearance on the 
second day of the fever, while in variola the eruption 
comes out on the fourth day of the disease, and the 
fever in scarlet fever is continuous throughout the 
eruptive period. The distinguishing features of scarlet 
fever is the strawberry tongue, the anginose condition 
of the throat, the boiled lobster color of the skin and the 
fine appearance of the rash. 

The postular stage of variola may be confounded 
with the pustular stage of syphilis, but the history of 
the disease, the chancre, the six weeks' to three 
months' incubation and the chronic form of the 



Smallpox. 123 

disease would go far in differentiating smallpox from 
syphilis. 

J. C. Sullivan, Cairo, Illinois, emphasized the point 
that when the patient complains of persistent back- 
ache followed by fever and pustular eruption affect- 
ing the palms of the hands and soles of the feet pro- 
truding beneath the outer skin, we have a case of 
smallpox to deal with, no matter how mild or insig- 
nificant it may appear and confluent or hemorrhagic 
smallpox may be contracted from it. 

Variola and varioloid may be distinguished from 
varicella by the fact that there is existing in the lo- 
cality in which the suspected case of varicella ap- 
pears an endemic or epidemic of smallpox ; by a 
greater rise in the fever in the ferbile stage ; by the 
typical papular stage of the eruption at the outset 
and by the typical pustular stage before desiccation 
takes place ; by the confluent leisons in confluent 
cases ; and by the marked stadium of the disease. 
Varicella is usually a disease of children and is of 
mild character, the fever, papules and pustules are 
not as marked as in smallpox and varioloid, though 
in the latter it may be extremely difficult, if not im- 
possible, to make a differential diagnosis. The 
sooner it is known, not only by the profession, but by 
the laity, that intermediate forms do occur that can- 
not be distinguished one from the other, the better it 
will be for both. Scattered papulo- vesicular and 
vesico-pustular lesions appearing after high fever and 
continuing to mature for over forty-eight hours, must 
always be viewed with suspicion. Superficial vesi- 
cles on the third day of the disease, or commingled 



1 24 Smallpox. 

with very minute and superficial pustules should be 
looked upon as characteristic of varicella. 

In an editorial on the ' ' The Barly Recognition of 
Smallpox," in the American Medical Association Jour- 
nal, Vol. XXXIX, No. 2, page 83, the editor speaks of 
the great importance and value of an early recogni- 
tion of smallpox, so that by proper methods and 
means the spread of smallpox could be prevented. 
He quotes an article on the diagnosis of eruptive fe- 
vers, by Professor Courmont of Lyons, who claims 
that a diagnosis of smallpox can be made at a dis- 
tance after an examination of a single drop of the pa- 
tient's blood. 

The prognosis of variola vera is very fatal, as at 
least fifteen to fifty per centum die of the disease. It 
is most fatal among pregnant women, new-born 
babies, the aged, and among those with their systems 
saturated with alcohol. The hemorrhagic and pur- 
puric symptoms are highly portentious and indicate a 
fatal result. 

I believe a perfect vaccination is usually a perfect 
immunity during life from the disease. In 1871 I 
used humanized vaccine and inserted the vaccine into 
the arm of the unprotected in three different places, 
sometimes one, two or three of these took perfectly, 
with very little ulceration, and were without any bad 
results, as far as my observation was extended. These 
vaccinations were often made in a family of children 
where there was existing at the time a case of small- 
pox in the same house ; in this way I often caused an 
immunity to these children thus exposed. It is my 
opinion that the humanized vaccine — barring the 



Smallpox. 125 

danger of the spread of disease — is the best and most 
protective. 

Dr. Robert N. Wilson, Philadelphia, Pa., says : " It 
seems that gl5^cerinated virus, as well as the vicious 
influence of the shield was disposed to present a more 
extensive ulcerative surface and a greater tendency to 
sloughing than the dried virus or arm to arm method," 
But he says the latter method is out of the question 
on account of the rapid spread of syphilis among the 
masses, and if it eventually proves true that glycer- 
inated virus opens up a broader avenue to the tetanic 
germ into the system than the less cleanly and safer 
dried point, we will have to beat a retreat till we dis- 
cover a substitute for glycerin that does not carry 
with it its disadvantages ( Vol. xxxviii, No. 19, 
A. M. A. Journal). 

The very greatest care should be taken to prevent 
sepsis, or diseased germs from entering the vaccine in 
the preparation of it, then we could have pure vac- 
cine to begin with, and then the operation of vaccin- 
ation should be done aseptically and antiseptically. 
There would then be very little danger of having any- 
thing but a healthy, pure and perfect vaccination. 
To tCvSt the perfection of the vaccination the indi- 
vidual thus vaccinated may have the operation re- 
peated in the same aseptic and antiseptic way at short 
intervals until it is found that the individual is im- 
mune. 

Hauenstein argues that humanized vaccine is pref- 
erable to bovine vaccine, and says the claim of some 
practitioners against the latter is absurd, and hints 
that the epidemic of smallpox all over the world at 



126 Smallpox. 

this time is due to the adoption of bovine vaccine. 
He thinks the humanized vaccine will gain in favor. 

The treatment of smallpox is largely expectant. 
Ointments and baths of mercury are used, and Fin- 
sen's phototherapy are recommended and highly satis- 
factory in the maturation period. The great object to 
be aimed at in the treatment of smallpox is cleanliness, 
fresh air, proper nourishment, and make the patient as 
comfortable as possible. 

Dr. E. W. Ridings in a paper before the Tennessee 
State Medical Society, states that he believes he has 
lessened the mortality in smallpox very considerably 
by subjecting them to bichlorid of mercury baths. 



GOLDEN WEDDING. 

To John Stanford Muli^in 

AND 

Sarah PoweIvI. Avars, 

With our congratulations on your having reached 
the Fiftieth Anniversary of your wedding, together 
with the hope you may enjoy many more years of 
health and strength and life. 

John MulIvIn Batten, 
Mary Batten, 
CoREivivi Batten, 

Downingtown, Pa. 
Wednesday, Jan. j, igo6. 



1856. John Stanford Mui^lin. 1906. 

Sarah Powei^l Ayars. 
Wednesday, January 3d, 1906. 
GOIvDKN WEDDING. 

A Golden Wedding is a measure 

Of fifty years of wedded life. 
Oh ! what a great pleasure 

When there hasn't been any strife. 

( 127 ) 



128 On a Golden Wedding. 

How few there are, celebrate it, 

How thankful this couple should be ; 

Who preserved themselves as years fit, 
So the celebration they can see. 

They have seen their children grown 

To be men and women stout ; 
To-night among them there's not a frown, 

As they hold on to their parents taut. 

To-night they meet in a family unbroken, 
After fifty years of Time's flight ; 

And the pleasures of life they betoken 
In their beaming faces in sight. 

Their children gathered here to-night, 
On this occasion should be proud. 

To look upon their parents in their might ; 
And in their horizon there's not a cloud. 

They might say, " How pleasant to live life 

over," 

Inestimable pleasures 'twould be ; 

To have one's friends 'round us hover, 

And at all times them able to see. 

John Mullin Batten, 

Downingtown, Pa. 
December i6, 190^. 



Record of My Maternal Grandfather's Enlist- 
ment Service in Revolutionary War. 



Pennsyi^vania State Library, 

DIVISION OF PUBLIC RECORDS. 

Hon. John K. Tener, Advisory 

President. Commission. 

John W.Jordan, LL. D,, 

Hon. Thomas L. Montgomery, Ethan Alien Weaver, 

Secretary and Treasurer. Frank R. Diffenderfer, 

Herman B. Ames, 
Luther R. Kelker, Boyd Crumrhie, 

Custodian. Julius F. Sachse, 

Charles Tubbs. 

HARRISBURG, PENNSYLVANIA, U. S. A., 
December g, 1912. 
To Whom it may Concern : 

1 hereby certify that one DUNCAN MCMULLEN was a pri- 
vate in Captain James McClasky's Company, Chester County 
Militia, 1782. Battalion and Battalion not stated. 

See p. 787, Volume Five, Pennsylvania Archives, Fifth 

Series. 

LUTHER R. KELKER, 

Custodian of the Public Records. 

In testimony whereof I hereby affix the 
Seal of this Department. 



I Seal. I 



( 129 ) 



JUN 17 1913 



